Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico, initially drew me in with whispers of legendary surf breaks and a laid-back coastal vibe. Luis Urrutia, owner of the Punta Pájaros hotel and a passionate ecologist, jokingly described the genesis of a local gathering spot as simply “a place where we could come to drink and smoke.” However, his deeper sentiment revealed the region’s commitment to something far more profound: sustainable and regenerative tourism. He eloquently spoke of creating a model for tourism in Puerto Escondido that actively benefits the environment, a stark contrast to the often-overdeveloped areas elsewhere in Mexico. This ethos, coupled with the palpable passion of the surf community, immediately created an exhilarating atmosphere. Like any great surf town, the core appeal of Puerto Escondido lies in its concentration of individuals deeply devoted to the ephemeral pursuit of the perfect wave, a passion that extends to shaping a unique and conscious way of life in this corner of Oaxaca.
My arrival in Puerto Escondido was fueled by a slightly naive ambition: to surf Zicatela beach before the summer swells transformed it into a behemoth. Zicatela is renowned for its powerful beach break, often referred to as the “Mexican Pipeline,” attracting seasoned surfers from across the globe. However, upon reaching the famed shore the next morning, I was met with waves crashing at well over ten feet, their force vibrating through the very sand beneath my feet. Zicatela’s raw power commanded respect, and paddling out that day was clearly not advisable for my skill level. This encounter brought a realization: regardless of Puerto Escondido’s evolution and future trajectory, it is the untamed Pacific Ocean that will ultimately safeguard its unique character, preventing it from becoming another mass-tourism destination like Acapulco or Tulum. While digital nomads might seek calmer waters for swimming, the untamed spirit of the ocean is integral to Puerto Escondido’s identity.
That evening, seeking culinary exploration, I ventured to Kakurega, an omakase restaurant perched high under a traditional palapa roof. This dining spot has become a significant addition to Punta Pájaros’ burgeoning gastronomic scene. Chef Saúl Carranza, the tattooed culinary artist from Hotel Escondido, presented each dish with theatrical flair, offering detailed and passionate descriptions. Simple ingredients were elevated to extraordinary levels; a humble sprig of broccoli was transformed by a complex and rich mole sauce, and a perfectly grilled quail was imbued with smoky notes from the fire. Dining at Kakurega felt like being let in on a well-kept secret, a truly special and intimate culinary experience. As dusk began to settle, drawn by the allure of the ocean, I returned to Roca Blanca beach, which I had visited on my first day. Spotting a promising wave forming in a secluded rocky cove, I paddled out, eager to finally experience the solitary communion with the water I had been anticipating.
