León, a sprawling city of 1.7 million inhabitants, ranks as the fourth largest metropolis in Mexico. Yet, unlike other urban giants, León maintains a surprisingly laid-back atmosphere. You won’t find towering skyscrapers or densely packed neighborhoods here. Instead, the city unfolds across a high plateau, its residential areas gently extending towards the surrounding mountains. Perched at an elevation of 6,000 feet above sea level, León enjoys a temperate climate that offers a welcome respite from the heat of Mexico’s coastal regions. While not heavily frequented by international tourists, León, Mexico, is a popular destination for domestic travelers, particularly those seeking high-quality leather goods – the city’s renowned specialty.
Our journey to León began with a flight into Guanajuato International Airport (BJX), conveniently located about 45 minutes by bus from the city center. Our arrival experience at BJX was remarkably smooth and peaceful, a stark contrast to the often chaotic arrivals at major tourist hubs like Cabo, Puerto Vallarta, or Cancún. In those bustling destinations, exiting baggage claim often means navigating a barrage of taxi drivers and tour operators vying for your attention. It can be an overwhelming and somewhat stressful introduction to Mexico.
However, at BJX, we simply collected our luggage, used an ATM to withdraw pesos, and easily located the bus stop just outside the terminal – all without a single unsolicited offer of a taxi. (Taxis were readily available, but you needed to approach them yourself!). To our pleasant surprise, the hourly bus to León arrived and departed just minutes after we reached the stop. This calm and efficient arrival set a positive tone for our exploration of León, Mexico, offering an unexpected and delightful start to our time in the country.
Leather boots and shoes on display in Zona Piel, Leon Mexico
Stepping into the Leather District (Zona Piel)
Arriving in León proper, the bus deposited us directly in the heart of the famed Leather District, locally known as Zona Piel. As we strolled along the streets, the rich, inviting aroma of freshly tanned leather permeated the air, emanating from countless shops lining the sidewalks. This sensory welcome perfectly complemented our initial positive impression of the city. However, our anonymity as tourists soon faded as we began to navigate the numerous leather vendors, politely deflecting frequent offers of “Botas amigos, botas? Boots?”. While persistent, the vendors were generally courteous and readily accepted a polite “no.” The sheer volume of shops, however, meant repeating this polite refusal often.
Display of various leather shoes in a shop in Leon Mexico
Cowboy boots and leather bags for sale in Leon Mexico
If you’re in the market for leather goods, particularly cowboy boots, León, Mexico, is undeniably the place to be. The district boasts literally hundreds of shops specializing in boots, many offering custom-made and elaborately decorated designs. Beyond boots, Zona Piel offers a vast selection of exquisite leather shoes, as well as numerous stores selling athletic footwear, often featuring imitation Nike, Adidas, and other popular brands. The sheer volume of footwear available suggests that this district could outfit the entire nation. While shoes dominate, the Leather District also presents an impressive array of leather bags, belts, jackets, wallets, fanny packs, and even horse saddles. Exploring Zona Piel is a captivating experience, a vibrant and bustling marketplace where you can wander, admire (and inhale) the extensive collection of leather craftsmanship.
Huarache sandals on display in a leather shop in Leon Mexico
Corner shop selling leather goods including boots, hats, and saddles in Leon Mexico
Navigating a León Heat Wave
Our arrival in León on June 11th coincided with an unexpected heat wave. The weather was intensely hot, with daily temperatures soaring into the upper 90s Fahrenheit (around 36 degrees Celsius) under a relentless sun. While the dry heat offered a slight advantage, we quickly realized we were unprepared for such prolonged high temperatures. It wasn’t until nearly two weeks into our stay that we experienced any relief and a return to more typical weather patterns.
Historically, April and May are considered the hottest months in León, yet even then, average temperatures remain below 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius), partly due to the city’s high elevation. The climate summary on the León Wikipedia page indicates an average high in June of 85.8 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Unfortunately, during our visit, we didn’t experience a single day at or below this average until June 30th.
A dog seeking shade in Leon Mexico during a heatwave
A street scene in Leon Mexico under the bright sun
This heat wave prompted me to re-examine my climate research, and I discovered that the data on the Wikipedia climate chart was only current up to 2010. Ignoring the past decade of climate shifts undoubtedly skews the averages downwards. It appears that climate change has extended the hotter May weather well into June, at least in recent years. Thankfully, our Airbnb apartment was equipped with air conditioning in the bedroom, providing a welcome sanctuary for sleeping during the hottest nights.
The Daily Delight of Fresh Tortillas
One of the simple joys of experiencing Mexico is the ubiquitous presence of tortillerías, local shops where fresh, warm tortillas are produced throughout the day. Often, you can hear a tortillería before you see it. The machinery used to make tortillas often emits a distinctive rhythmic squeaking sound, reminiscent of a worn serpentine belt in an old car engine. The closest tortillería to our apartment was tucked away on a residential street, easily missed if not specifically sought out on a map.
On my first visit, I was greeted with a single word – “cuantas?” – meaning “how many?”. A valid question, indeed! I hadn’t considered the quantity before stepping up to the counter. So, I responded with “veinte“, meaning “twenty.” The woman behind the counter looked at me slightly quizzically and repeated, “veinte?” I confirmed, “Sí, veinte.” She then proceeded to gather tortillas, weigh them, and place them on the counter in front of me. Then, she simply looked at me expectantly, waiting. It was my turn to ask, “cuanto?“, which also means “how much” (in terms of cost). “Veinte,” she replied, with a hint of incredulity. “Ah, sí.” How convenient! Twenty tortillas for twenty pesos. Perfect! I paid, thanked her, and left.
It wasn’t until later that I realized my mistake. We had far more than twenty tortillas. I discovered they sell tortillas by weight, not individually. Obviously, this gringo didn’t want 20 kilograms of tortillas, so she had calculated an approximate amount of 900 grams that would cost 20 pesos. Essentially, I had told her how much I wanted to spend and then asked her how much it cost – a bit backwards!
Fresh tortillas and taco ingredients in Leon Mexico
The next time, I was better prepared and requested “un medio kilo“, half a kilo, which turned out to be about 30 tortillas. This cost 11 pesos, approximately $.60 USD. It’s almost unbelievable that something so delicious and fundamental to Mexican cuisine can be so affordable. I believe you could wrap almost anything, even a piece of dried beef jerky, in a fresh tortilla, and it would be palatable. However, I opted for more flavorful fillings, primarily mouthwatering carnitas.
Navigating the Language Barrier
The tortillería encounter marked our initial, somewhat clumsy, foray into using Spanish, but it was certainly not our last. León has definitely challenged our basic Spanish language skills, as English speakers are not commonly encountered in the city. I had some prior exposure to Spanish from high school classes, although that was many years ago. Katie and I had also been practicing on Duolingo for a few months leading up to our trip. Overall, we possess a decent grasp of basic Spanish, but still struggle with everyday conversations. While I can initiate conversations, comprehending the rapid-fire responses of native Spanish speakers proves quite challenging. They speak so quickly! However, immersion is undoubtedly the most effective way to improve, and we intend to continue practicing and learning throughout our extended stay in Mexico.
Bougainvillea flowers in a park in Leon Mexico
Pink bougainvillea flowers in Leon Mexico
An Unexpected Welcome Wagon
On one of our first days exploring downtown León, we were approached by a man on a bicycle. He rode up to us and enthusiastically inquired if we spoke English. “Yes?” we replied. “Welcome to León! Welcome to Mexico! I’m so glad you’re here. Where are you from?” We shared our origin. “Oh, that’s wonderful. I have family there! I do have some bad news for you, though. I’m one of those Jehovah’s Witnesses.”
A man on a bicycle in Leon Mexico
Just our luck! We finally encountered someone fluent in English, and he was a proselytizer. However, he was genuinely friendly and not at all pushy. He simply asked if we had any questions, which we politely declined, and then once again warmly welcomed us to León before cycling off. His humorous approach and sincere welcome made it a memorable interaction, demonstrating that encountering English speakers isn’t always advantageous, but can sometimes lead to unexpected and pleasant encounters.
Experiencing León Bravos Baseball
Summer in León means baseball season, and we treated ourselves to a game featuring the local team, the León Bravos. The Bravos are an independent professional baseball team competing in the Mexican League, which comprises 18 teams and a three-month regular season. Their stadium has a capacity of approximately 6,500, and it was about half-full for the Wednesday evening game we attended. However, the 3,000 or so fans in attendance were incredibly enthusiastic and engaged. The atmosphere was electric. Music played not only during batter walk-up songs but also between pitches. Organized cheers erupted frequently, often led by dedicated fans in a section equipped with drums and flags. Almost all spectators seemed deeply invested in the game.
Fans watching a baseball game in Leon Mexico
Even during breaks in on-field action, entertainment was constant. Between innings, the stadium hosted tug-of-war contests, foot races, and sumo-style matches where participants in inflatable cylinders tried to knock each other down. The jumbotron featured a “Emoji Cam” where kids competed to make faces matching various emojis. There was also a kiss cam and an air guitar cam. And, of course, the wave made its rounds. The constant entertainment ensured a vibrant and energetic atmosphere throughout the evening.
Adding to the excitement, the baseball itself was surprisingly high-quality, exceeding my expectations. The opposing pitcher consistently threw fastballs reaching 95 mph. We witnessed several impressive defensive plays. Further research revealed that numerous players on both teams had been drafted by MLB teams at some point in their careers.
Baseball vendors selling food and drinks in stadium seating in Leon Mexico
The only minor drawback was the somewhat uncomfortable seating. The plastic seats were directly bolted to the concrete and didn’t fold, making it nearly impossible to pass by people in your row. Even standing up didn’t provide enough space to squeeze past. Once seated, you were essentially committed to staying put. To compensate, however, vendors circulated constantly throughout the seating area, offering a wide array of food and drinks. You could purchase tacos, tortas, popcorn, chips, candy, and numerous other snacks, as well as micheladas, beer, sodas, water, and other beverages.
Despite the slightly cramped seating, the constant availability of refreshments and the overall lively atmosphere more than compensated for this minor inconvenience. I left the stadium with the catchy chant “Vamos Bravos” (clap, clap, clap-clap-clap) stuck in my head for days, a testament to the thoroughly enjoyable evening.
The Majestic Expiatorio Cathedral
Dominating the city center is the striking Templo Expiatorio del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús, or Expiatorio Cathedral of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. A rather lengthy name, but fitting for this incredibly impressive church. Its neo-Gothic design evokes the grandeur of cathedrals found in major Western European capitals. The cathedral attracts both devout worshippers and curious visitors like ourselves, drawn to admire its intricate exterior and interior. Entrance is free during opening hours. The cathedral doors themselves are noteworthy, crafted from bronze and depicting allegorical scenes.
Exterior view of the Expiatorio Cathedral in Leon Mexico
Close up of the Expiatorio Cathedral's facade in Leon Mexico
Interior view of the Expiatorio Cathedral in Leon Mexico
Stained glass window inside Expiatorio Cathedral in Leon Mexico
Birdwatching in Urban León
Our accommodation was conveniently located near one of León’s larger parks. We spent considerable time observing the local birdlife, which was entirely new to us. Our favorite sightings included the Golden-fronted woodpecker and the Vermillion flycatcher. The flycatcher, in particular, was endlessly entertaining. They perch conspicuously on low branches, their vibrant red plumage making them easily identifiable. They frequently swoop down to catch flies and other small insects, often returning to the same perch to repeat the process. Sometimes, they engage in aerial chases, their bright red bodies darting and weaving at high speed in pursuit of their prey.
Vermillion flycatcher bird perched on a branch in Leon Mexico
Savoring the Flavors of León
Our culinary experiences in León were consistently delightful, taking full advantage of Mexican food items that we had missed for too long. Hardly a meal went by without including either mango or avocado. We even hauled home at least three watermelons from the grocery store. We also enjoyed readily available papaya with passion fruit, a favorite combination we hadn’t encountered since our time in Asia. Tacos were consumed in vast quantities, primarily filled with delicious carnitas. And many mornings began with pan dulce, Mexican sweet bread, in its countless wonderful varieties. To combat the heat, we indulged in numerous paletas de agua, fruit-based popsicles, available in dozens of flavors.
Rice bowl with carnitas, avocado, mango and other ingredients in Leon Mexico
Papaya with passion fruit in Leon Mexico
Fruit popsicles (paletas) in Leon Mexico
A Note on Safety in León, Mexico
Despite Mexico being the sixth most visited country globally, attracting nearly 40 million international tourists annually, many individuals in countries like the United States harbor concerns about safety throughout Mexico. This perception is often fueled by sensationalized news coverage and a lack of awareness regarding the vastness and diversity of Mexico. While cartel violence is a serious issue in certain regions of Mexico, it is largely concentrated in areas that tourists, including ourselves, have no reason to visit. This is comparable to visiting cities in the U.S., where one also avoids areas known for higher crime rates.
To guide our travel decisions, we consult the U.S. government’s travel advisories, which list specific areas that government personnel are restricted from visiting. We also find the travel recommendations from the UK government helpful, as they often present a slightly less alarmist perspective. By consulting both sources and conducting a bit of additional research, it’s relatively easy to identify areas to avoid. Furthermore, regardless of location, we consistently avoid involvement with drugs and politics, the two primary areas of cartel activity.
Two dogs looking out from a doorway in Leon Mexico
In short, we have felt no reason to be concerned about our safety in León. The image of Mexico often portrayed in sensationalist 24-hour news cycles is a far cry from the reality experienced by most tourists. The majority of Mexican people are incredibly warm, welcoming, and friendly. (Even those not actively proselytizing!). We are consistently greeted with smiles and friendly greetings on the streets. By practicing common-sense precautions, such as avoiding known gang hotspots, not walking alone late at night, and refraining from displaying excessive wealth, our risks are minimal – comparable to those in any other destination we visit worldwide.
Colorful buildings in Leon Mexico
Our León Accommodation
We opted for a spacious three-bedroom, two-bathroom condo rental located just south of the Leather District. It was a comfortable and well-appointed apartment. The kitchen was fully equipped, and we appreciated the presence of original artwork on the walls. Crucially, as mentioned earlier, the apartment had air conditioning in the bedroom, which was essential during the initial heat wave. While the listing stipulated that AC was only guaranteed for April and May, we were pleasantly surprised when our host readily agreed to let us use it throughout our stay, emphasizing our comfort. We probably should have asked on our first sweltering night!
Living room of an apartment in Leon Mexico
Dining area of a rented apartment in Leon Mexico
Kitchen in an apartment rental in Leon Mexico
León Expenses
Our total expenses during our month in León may not be entirely representative of typical costs, as we chose a larger, more upscale apartment and factored in air travel. However, overall, León strikes us as a very affordable city. Food prices are reasonable (despite our enthusiastic consumption), and the city is highly walkable. Even our baseball outing, including two tickets, bottled water, and a taxi ride home, cost less than $30 in total. Our total spending for the month in León amounted to $2417.41. Including recurring monthly expenses like insurance and phone bills, our total outlay for the 30 days reached $2674.47.
In conclusion, we found León to be a somewhat understated city, but a very comfortable and convenient place to live. It’s a large city with all the expected modern amenities, yet it retains a smaller, more manageable feel. At a relaxed tourist pace, you could easily explore the cathedral and downtown area, browse the Leather District, and attend a baseball or soccer game (depending on the season) all within a single day. Basic Spanish language skills definitely enhance the experience, as English speakers are not prevalent. However, we consistently felt welcomed, even while stumbling through our Spanish. If you’re seeking well-priced and unique leather items, or simply enjoy the aroma of leather, León, Mexico, is hard to surpass. We considered it an excellent and accessible starting point for our extended exploration of Mexico.
