Nashbird has been hogging the limelight, and while their hot chicken is undeniably a draw, there’s another culinary gem on Ninth Street in Oklahoma City that’s making a powerful comeback – Iguana Mexican Grill. For those in the know, Iguana isn’t just another restaurant; it’s a veteran of the OKC food scene, a place that paved the way long before Automobile Alley became the bustling hub it is today, and even before the second S&B’s Burger Joint opened its doors. In its heyday, Iguana was at the forefront of the social media food revolution, thanks to the innovative spirit of former head chef Ryan Parrott, now the culinary force behind the beloved Picasso Cafe in Paseo.
While Iguana continued to serve Parrott’s menu after his departure, something was missing – the passion that elevates food from good to unforgettable. But change is in the air. Last year marked a turning point with a new owner and a fresh creative vision ushered in by Chef Marc Dunham. Dunham is no stranger to crafting exceptional food. With a background that includes owning the popular JT’s Tacos food truck and leading the Francis Tuttle Culinary Program, where he launched District 21, Dunham brings a wealth of experience and a deep understanding of flavor. He even produced a documentary about raising heritage pigs, highlighting his dedication to quality ingredients and culinary artistry. Simply put, Marc Dunham knows food, and since taking the helm at Iguana Mexican Grill, he’s made it his mission to revitalize the menu and reignite the restaurant’s culinary flame.
Diving into the Deliciousness at Iguana Mexican Grill
Let’s get straight to the heart of the matter: the food. And there’s no better place to begin than with a staple – chips and salsa. Complimentary chips and salsa are standard fare in Mexican restaurants, but Iguana’s salsa is anything but ordinary. Fresh, chunky, and vibrant, it leans closer to a pico de gallo than typical restaurant salsa. During a visit with Brian Byrne of Burrito Boyz fame, the exceptional quality of the salsa was immediately apparent as we devoured it with impressive speed, possibly setting a new record for salsa consumption.
While the chips and salsa are complimentary, the queso is worth every penny. This isn’t the processed cheese dip you might find elsewhere; this is authentic queso. The Seven Pepper Queso ($4.5 for a cup, $7.5 for a bowl) is luxuriously cheesy and delightfully gooey. For those seeking to elevate their queso experience, a variety of additions are available for just $1 each, including beef, chorizo, chicken, black beans, sour cream, guacamole, bacon, or roasted green chiles. The roasted green chiles are a particularly stellar addition, adding a smoky depth and subtle heat that complements the rich cheese perfectly.
For cocktail enthusiasts, Iguana boasts an extensive margarita menu. The Blood Orange Margarita ($12) is a standout, offering a perfect balance of tartness and sweetness with a noticeable kick. Made with fresh-squeezed lime and orange juice, and blood orange liqueur, it’s a vibrant and potent concoction that’s as beautiful as it is delicious.
As the weather cools, warm and comforting dishes become even more appealing, and Iguana’s Sopa Azteca ($5 for a cup, $8 for a bowl) is the ideal choice. This classic chicken tortilla soup transcends expectations with its phenomenal broth. Thin strips of fried tortilla soften in the rich liquid, alongside a generous portion of shredded chicken, providing both texture and substance. However, the broth itself steals the show – dark, deeply flavorful, and perfectly salted, it’s a warming and soul-satisfying experience.
Moving on to the enchiladas, the Enchiladas Chile Con Carne ($12) are a testament to the potential of simple dishes done exceptionally well. This dish proves that a cheese enchilada can, and should, be far more impressive than the standard fare. The key is in the quality ingredients and careful preparation. Tender corn tortillas, practically melting at the touch of a fork, envelop a filling of Oaxaca and Chihuahua cheeses. This cheese blend is a revelation – melty, chewy, dense, and bursting with flavor. It begs the question: why isn’t this cheese combination in every cheese enchilada? It’s not about being fancy; it’s about being genuinely good.
Smothering the enchiladas is a chile con carne, deeply flavored and darkened by spices and slow cooking. The beef is secondary to the sauce’s intense and complex flavor profile, which invites you to savor each bite and contemplate the layers of taste. On the side, the elote is not to be missed. This isn’t just good corn; it’s exceptional. The flavor is so compelling it’s hard to share.
Brian also sampled the crispy fish tacos ($14), and they represent another instance of Iguana elevating a familiar dish to new heights. Fried cod in a flour tortilla might seem basic, but the addition of roasted cabbage, pickled onion, chile-spiked aioli, and a jalapeño salsa transforms it into something special. While the cod’s flavor might be subtle amidst these bold accompaniments, it provides a perfect, meaty foundation for the other ingredients to shine.
In contrast, the Beef Barbacoa Tacos ($13) offer a different, equally compelling experience. The beef barbacoa is slow-cooked to a point where it’s incredibly tender, almost meltingly so, becoming its own rich and flavorful sauce. A generous portion of this intensely flavorful beef is piled into a fresh corn tortilla with just diced onion and cilantro – simple perfection. These tacos are a must-try, demanding immediate consumption.
Before concluding the meal, Chef Marc brought out a Quesadilla Oaxaca ($13), a dish as straightforward and satisfying as a quesadilla can be. Using handmade tortillas filled with Oaxaca cheese and seared to perfection, the quesadilla is topped with a lovely sauce, though it would be equally enjoyable served plain. It’s a testament to the principle that simple preparation with outstanding ingredients always triumphs.
Dunham’s revitalization of Iguana Mexican Grill is an ongoing process. He’s not one to rest on his laurels. Iguana is poised for a major resurgence, and it’s highly recommended to visit now, before word fully gets out and lines stretch out the door again. Because, undoubtedly, they will. Welcome back, Iguana.
