Just a short drive west of Puebla, the vibrant colonial city, lies Cholula, a town steeped in Mexican history and boasting remarkable archaeological significance. Cholula, Mexico, is a destination that effortlessly blends ancient wonders with colonial charm, offering a rich tapestry of experiences for every traveler.
Cholula is globally recognized as the home of the Great Pyramid of Cholula, or Piramid Tepanapa, an archaeological marvel that holds the title of the largest pyramid in the world by volume – even surpassing the Great Pyramid of Cheops in Egypt in sheer size. This impressive structure is the centerpiece of Cholula’s archaeology park and a must-see for anyone visiting Mexico.
Historically, Cholula held a prominent position in Mesoamerica. At its peak, it flourished as the second-largest city after the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan. It’s believed to have been a crucial religious and cultural hub, attracting various civilizations throughout its long history. The city’s strategic importance led to periods of influence by the Olmecs around 600 AD, and later by the Toltecs approximately three centuries afterward. By the time the Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés arrived in the early 16th century, Cholula was significantly influenced by the powerful Aztec empire.
The arrival of Hernán Cortés in Cholula marks a dramatic and pivotal moment in the city’s history. Invited by Montezuma II, the Aztec ruler, Cortés’s visit was, unbeknownst to him initially, part of an elaborate ambush plot. However, the Tlaxcalans, indigenous people and rivals of the Aztecs who had allied with Cortés, forewarned him of the impending treachery. Forewarned, Cortés and his forces arrived prepared, and in response to the planned ambush, unleashed a devastating reprisal upon Cholula. A large-scale massacre ensued, and Cortés ordered the destruction of Cholula’s sacred pyramids, intending to replace them with Christian churches, symbolically and physically asserting Spanish dominance.
Legend has it that Cortés aimed to build 365 churches in Cholula, one for each day of the year. While the actual number is closer to forty, it’s still a substantial figure for a town of Cholula’s size, underscoring the significant colonial religious influence. Today, Cholula is renowned for its numerous churches, and a unique annual event, the Concert of Church Bells in November, celebrates this heritage.
Modern Cholula is geographically divided into two main sections: San Pedro Cholula and San Andres Cholula. San Pedro Cholula serves as the historical and cultural heart, housing the major churches, museums, and the renowned archaeological park. In contrast, San Andres Cholula is known for its vibrant nightlife, particularly popular with the student population due to the presence of a campus of Puebla’s State University.
While easily accessible as a day trip from Puebla, Cholula merits consideration as a base for exploring the wider region. Staying in Cholula allows for deeper immersion into its unique atmosphere and provides convenient access to nearby captivating villages like Tonantzintla and Acatepec. Furthermore, an overnight stay in Cholula offers a special reward: breathtaking early morning views of the majestic volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. The crisp morning air often provides the clearest visibility of these iconic volcanic peaks before the daytime heat haze obscures them.
Key Attractions in Cholula
The Colonial Charm of the City Center
The Zocalo, Cholula’s main plaza, is the bustling heart of the city, serving as a central meeting point for locals and visitors alike. This vibrant square is framed by the elegant arches of the Municipal Palace and lined with an array of inviting restaurants, charming cafes, and quaint shops, making it the perfect place to soak in the atmosphere of Cholula, Mexico.
Churches of Cholula: A Testament to History
The sheer number of churches in Cholula is striking. While the legendary 365 churches are a myth, the approximately 40 churches present are still remarkable. The Ex Convento de San Gabriel, located along the east side of the Zocalo, is a prominent landmark. This walled complex encompasses three distinct churches: Capilla de Tercera Orden, Capilla Real, and Templo de San Gabriel, each showcasing unique architectural and historical features.
The Enchanting Church Bells Concert
A highlight of Cholula’s annual calendar is the Concert of Church Bells, typically held in November. The event is a truly magical experience. The city lights are dimmed, and locals and visitors alike gather in the town center, carrying candles, to collectively experience the harmonious chimes of Cholula’s many church bells. The concert is a powerful cultural event that reflects Cholula’s deep-rooted religious traditions and community spirit.
Exploring Cholula’s Archaeological Park and the Great Pyramid
Cholula’s archaeological park, officially named “Zona Arqueologica de Cholula,” is the city’s crown jewel for archaeology enthusiasts. It is here that you can witness the immensity of the Great Pyramid of Cholula. The Piramide Tepanapa, as it’s locally known, isn’t just large; it’s the largest pyramid in the world by volume. In its prime, it measured an astonishing 1,476 feet in width and 213 feet in height, dwarfing even the Pyramid of Cheops in volume. Adding a layer of historical complexity, the Spanish conquistadors, seemingly unaware of the massive structure beneath, built the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios church atop what appeared to be a natural hill.
Entering the archaeological park involves an intriguing walk through a 1,200-foot tunnel that pierces through the heart of the Great Pyramid. While most of the extensive network of tunnels excavated by archaeologists (totaling about five miles) are not open to the public, the accessible sections offer a fascinating glimpse into the pyramid’s inner structure. Guided tours are highly recommended to fully appreciate the tunnels and the history they reveal. The pyramid is not a monolithic structure but rather a series of pyramids built successively over centuries, reflecting the evolving cultures of Cholula.
On the south side of the archaeological park, you can explore the Patio de los Altares, the ancient city’s main plaza. For a deeper understanding of the site, visit the small museum located near the park entrance. Opened in 1971, the museum houses an impressive cut-out model of the pyramid, a reconstruction of the ancient city, and a collection of artifacts unearthed during archaeological excavations.
A walk to the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios church at the pyramid’s summit is rewarded with stunning panoramic views. From this vantage point, you can admire the neoclassical architecture of the church and take in sweeping vistas of Cholula, the expansive Valley of Puebla, and, weather permitting, the majestic volcanoes. For the best views of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, plan your visit for the morning hours.
The Majestic Volcanoes: Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl
Dominating the landscape around Cholula and south of Mexico City are the iconic volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. These towering peaks are integral to the region’s identity and offer a breathtaking natural spectacle. To fully appreciate their grandeur, early morning viewing is crucial, as afternoon mists often obscure the views.
Popocatepetl (wiki), affectionately known as “Popo,” is Mexico’s second-highest peak, reaching an elevation of approximately 17,800 feet (5,426 meters). Only Pico de Orizaba, Mexico’s highest mountain, surpasses it by a small margin. Popocatepetl is also visible from Cholula, and notably, it holds the distinction of being Mexico’s most active volcano. Its current cycle of volcanic activity began after a major eruption in 1947.
Iztaccihuatl (wiki), a dormant volcano, is connected to Popocatepetl to the north and features four distinct peaks, the highest reaching around 17,150 feet (5,230 meters). The silhouette of Iztaccihuatl is said to resemble a reclining woman, giving rise to the poignant Legend of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl (detailed below). Iztaccihuatl’s peaks are often capped with snow, adding to its scenic allure.
While both volcanoes can be seen from Mexico City on exceptionally clear days, air pollution in the capital often limits visibility. Cholula, being closer and less affected by smog, offers a much more reliable vantage point for enjoying clear views of these magnificent mountains throughout the year. Particularly on crisp spring days or after the rainy season in late October and early November, the volcanoes can be viewed in their full splendor, even from Mexico City, but Cholula remains the premier location for consistent and stunning views.
The Legend of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl: This enduring Aztec legend tells a tragic love story. Popocatepetl, a brave warrior, was deeply in love with Iztaccihuatl. When he went to war, false news of his death reached Iztaccihuatl, leading her to die of grief. Upon his return and discovering his beloved’s fate, Popocatepetl vowed to eternally watch over her. The shape of Iztaccihuatl mountain is said to represent the form of a sleeping woman. Local lore also suggests that Popocatepetl becomes active when “trouble is brewing in the world.”
Museums and Cultural Experiences in Cholula
Cholula offers a range of museums and cultural centers that provide insights into the city’s rich heritage.
Franciscan Library: Located within the Ex Convento de San Gabriel complex, this beautifully restored library houses an impressive collection of approximately 24,000 volumes of public works dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. The collection predominantly covers religion, theology, philosophy, and fine arts, primarily written in Latin and Old Spanish. For those interested in historical texts, their website is http://biblio.udlap.mx/franciscana/.
Museo del Caballero Aguila (Eagle Knight Museum): For a unique historical perspective, this museum offers a walk-through history of Cholula, claiming to be the longest continuously occupied residence in North America, with exhibits spanning from pre-Hispanic times to the present day.
Casa de la Cultura (House of Culture): Cholula’s Cultural Center hosts temporary exhibitions and workshops encompassing diverse cultural themes, including art, music, theater, and painting, offering a glimpse into contemporary Cholulan arts and culture.
Local Crafts and Sweet Treats
Calle Morelos is the go-to street in Cholula for exploring local artistry and flavors. Here, you’ll find numerous art and craft shops showcasing locally produced goods, as well as Cholula’s renowned confectionery, crafted from natural fruit pastes. Craft offerings include Talavera ceramic tableware, distinctive red clay pottery, wrought iron works, locally made fireworks, blown glass art, cotton textiles, and hand-carved wood sculptures.
Vibrant Markets of Cholula
Like any vibrant Mexican town, Cholula boasts lively and authentic markets. The main market, situated just two blocks from the Zocalo on Calle Morelos, is a central hub for local commerce. Housed in a large market building, it features a vast array of stalls selling everything imaginable, from fresh produce, meats, and spices to leather goods, toys, crafts, flowers, prepared foods, housewares, hardware, and electronics. The market typically comes alive around 10 am daily and stays open until late, offering a sensory-rich experience of a genuine Mexican market in action.
San Andres Cholula: Nightlife and Container City
East of San Pedro Cholula, beyond the archaeological park, lies San Andres Cholula. This part of the city is home to a campus of the Universidad de las Americas Puebla and is Cholula’s nightlife center, especially popular with students. San Andres offers a contrasting atmosphere to the historical charm of San Pedro. Interestingly, San Andres Cholula is also known for an unusual phenomenon: an immense concentration of shipping containers. So many containers are stored in one area that it’s locally known as “Container City,” drawing some curious visitors interested in this unique urban landscape.
Day Trips to Tonantzintla and Acatepec
A highly recommended excursion from Cholula is a visit to the nearby villages of Tonantzintla and Acatepec. This route, often called the Ruta Franciscana, highlights the stunning churches in these villages. To fully appreciate the cultural and historical significance of these sites, engaging a local tour guide is highly recommended. Many hotels in Cholula offer organized tours that typically start early in the morning and return later in the day.
Getting To and Around Cholula
By Air: The closest airport is Puebla International Airport (PBC). From the airport, Cholula is about a 20-minute drive. Transportation options from the airport include authorized taxis, buses to Puebla followed by a local bus to Cholula, or pre-arranged shuttle services to your Cholula hotel. For comprehensive air travel information in Mexico, refer to the Mexperience guide on Air Travel in Mexico.
By Bus: First-class buses from Mexico City’s eastern bus terminal run to Puebla. From Puebla’s bus station, you can easily catch another bus or a taxi for the short 15-minute trip to Cholula. For detailed bus travel information in Mexico, consult the Mexperience guide on Traveling by Bus in Mexico.
By Car: To drive to Cholula from Mexico City, take Highway 150D South, or from Veracruz, Highway 150D West. From Puebla, follow the clearly marked signs to Cholula, located approximately six miles west of Puebla. Additional information about driving in Mexico can be found in the Mexperience guides on Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads.
Car Rental: Renting a car is a great option for exploring Cholula and the surrounding colonial towns and cities at your own pace. It provides greater flexibility compared to public transport and allows access to more remote locations. For essential information on car rentals in Mexico, see the Mexperience guide on Car Rental in Mexico.
Taxis: Taxis in Cholula, like many Mexican colonial cities, typically don’t use meters. Always agree on the fare before starting your journey. Taxis are relatively affordable compared to North America and Europe, making them a practical mode of transport. Your hotel can arrange taxis, and while hotel-arranged taxis may be slightly more expensive than street-hailed taxis, they offer convenience and often perceived safety. Spanish language skills can be helpful in negotiating taxi fares. For more detailed information, refer to the Mexperience guide on Taxi Travel in Mexico.
Cholula Travel Essentials
Telephone & Communications: For information on staying connected in Mexico, including dialing codes, consult the Mexperience guide on Communications in Mexico.
Currency Exchange: Banks with ATMs are readily available around the Zocalo. During banking hours, banks and Casas de Cambio (currency exchange bureaus) will exchange traveler’s checks and cash. For comprehensive information on managing your money in Mexico, see the Mexperience guide on Money in Mexico.
Travel Insurance: Travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance are highly recommended for your trip to Mexico. The Mexperience guide on Travel Insurance in Mexico provides detailed information and links to specialist insurance providers.
Volcano Viewing Tips: For the most spectacular views of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, plan to view them in the early morning. Sunrise offers stunning views as the rising sun illuminates their snow-capped peaks. Optimal viewing times are generally before 11 am, as mists tend to develop later in the day, obscuring the volcanoes.
Internet Access: Internet cafes are easily found in Cholula and across Mexico. WiFi is increasingly common in cafes, shops, hotels, and some public spaces. See also: Finding WiFi Internet Access in Mexico.
Active Volcano Alert: Popocatepetl is currently under a yellow alert due to ongoing volcanic activity, although recent activity has lessened. While there is no immediate threat to travel in Puebla, Cholula, or surrounding areas, it’s advisable to stay informed about any updates. Mexican geological authorities continuously monitor volcanic activity and will provide ample notice if the situation changes.
Shopping for Souvenirs in Cholula
Puebla state, including Cholula, is famous for Talavera ceramic ware. In Cholula, you can find a wide selection of Talavera items, including colorful tiles, dishes, and dinnerware. While not inexpensive, Cholula and Puebla are among the most affordable places in Mexico to purchase authentic Talavera.
Cholula’s markets are a true highlight for shoppers. The main market offers an authentic Mexican market experience, selling everything from fresh foods and spices to local arts, crafts, and unique souvenirs. Calle Morelos is another excellent street for browsing art and craft stores.
Cholula’s Climate
Cholula enjoys a pleasant, spring-like climate year-round, making it ideal for outdoor activities and exploring the city’s cultural and historical attractions. Rain is infrequent, mainly occurring between April and November, typically in brief, intense afternoon showers, followed by dry and cooler evenings. Light layers, including a warm sweater or jacket, are recommended, especially for cooler mornings and evenings, particularly during winter months.
Weather and Climate Resources for Mexico
For more in-depth information on weather patterns across Mexico, consult the Mexperience guide on Weather and Climates in Mexico.
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