Mexico City’s vibrant culinary scene is renowned globally, and at its pinnacle stands Pujol. Securing a reservation at Pujol, even months in advance, is a rite of passage for serious food enthusiasts visiting Mexico City. My recent journey brought me to this celebrated establishment, and it proved to be a deep dive into the art of Mexican gastronomy, elevated by impeccable service and a dedication to showcasing traditional flavors in innovative ways. Long before booking flights or accommodations, Pujol was cemented as a cornerstone of my Mexico City adventure – a testament to its magnetic pull in the world of fine dining.
My visit occurred in May 2024, just before Pujol proudly received its well-deserved second Michelin star. This review offers a recent perspective on the Pujol experience. While Chef Enrique Olvera’s menu is constantly evolving, the legendary mole madre remains a fixture, a living testament to culinary heritage that matures with each passing day.
My overall impression was one of culinary excellence, with each dish demonstrating a profound respect for tradition, albeit with a tendency towards robust, sometimes salty, flavors. Be prepared to dedicate your evening to this gastronomic journey; our dinner unfolded over a leisurely four hours – an immersive experience that may not suit those seeking a quick meal, but is perfect for savoring every moment of this exceptional dining experience.
Zen Garden at Pujol Restaurant in Mexico City
Pujol’s Tasting Menu: A Culinary Exploration of Mexico
The tasting menu we enjoyed that Monday evening ($3495 MXN after tax, excluding tip) was a curated selection of Pujol’s signature dishes, each telling a story of Mexican culinary heritage:
1. Snacks: An Overture of Textures and Flavors
The meal commenced with a trio of meticulously crafted snacks, designed to awaken the palate:
- Tuba and Tortilla Chips: The “tuba” was a revelation – a chilled, subtly sweet soup of fermented coconut water and agave syrup. Its refreshing character acted as a perfect prelude, cleansing the palate and preparing it for the richness to come. Paired with homemade tortilla chips, which while simple, provided a pleasant textural contrast.
Refreshing Tuba Soup at Pujol Mexico City
Basic yet crisp Tortilla Chips served with Tuba at Pujol
- Panucho: This crispy, cracker-like bite featured creamy macadamia nuts and a vibrant pico de gallo. While reminiscent of familiar street food flavors found throughout Mexico City, Pujol’s panucho offered a refined take on this classic combination.
Pujol's Panucho snack with macadamia and pico de gallo
- Baby Corn: The standout snack was undoubtedly the baby corn. Smoked within its husk, it arrived with a captivating aroma, drenched in a unique chicatana ant and chile costeño mayonnaise. The sauce imparted a rich, buttery, and subtly spicy finish. As our cooking class instructor had shared, chicatana ants are considered the “caviar of Mexico,” instantly elevating this dish into a luxurious experience.
Smoked Baby Corn with Chicatana Ant Mayonnaise at Pujol
2. Octopus Ceviche: A Taste of the Sea
The second course was a delicate octopus ceviche, bathed in heart of palm juice and complemented by pico de gallo. Echoing the tuba, the heart of palm juice provided a refreshing element, while the octopus itself was incredibly tender. Its freshness was palpable, almost as if the suckers were subtly dancing on the palate.
Fresh Octopus Ceviche with Heart of Palm Juice at Pujol
3. Amberjack Tostada: An Adventurous Crunch
Next was an amberjack tostada, adorned with serrano pepper mayonnaise and a dusting of grasshopper. While grasshoppers might seem unconventional to some, in Mexican cuisine, they are a prized ingredient. Here, the grasshopper added a peppery, earthy note that beautifully enhanced the flavor of the amberjack. Amberjack, known for its mild taste, was transformed into a savory delight. The crispy tostada provided a satisfying crunch, adding textural complexity to this memorable bite.
Amberjack Tostada with Grasshopper at Pujol Restaurant
4. Seabass: A Dive into Salinity
The fourth course presented a whole seabass, expertly portioned tableside. It was accompanied by a vibrant green pistachio mole, shallots, fava beans, seasonal vegetables, and watercress. The seabass was cooked to a pleasing tenderness. However, the overall flavor profile leaned heavily towards saltiness. The shallot topping, intended to harmonize with the green pistachio mole, seemed overpowering. With a limited amount of mole to balance the dish, the seabass, unfortunately, became dominated by salt. This dish was less enjoyable compared to the others.
Whole Seabass with Green Pistachio Mole at Pujol
5. Braised Lamb: Tender and Rich
The braised lamb course was a highlight – a medallion of incredibly tender lamb served alongside guacamole, eggplant, and pasilla chili paste. The lamb was so rich and buttery that the guacamole felt almost superfluous. The star accompaniment was the eggplant, topped with chickpeas, creating a substantial and flavorful bite without being heavy. A small pot of pasilla chili paste offered a concentrated heat, requiring only a tiny amount to add a fiery kick that lingered pleasantly. Warm tortillas accompanied the lamb, perfect for creating tacos and savoring every element of this robust course.
Braised Lamb with Guacamole and Pasilla Pepper Paste at Pujol
Spicy Pasilla Pepper Paste for Braised Lamb at Pujol
Warm Tortillas for the Braised Lamb Course at Pujol
Eggplant and Chickpea side for Braised Lamb at Pujol
Perfectly Braised Lamb Medallion at Pujol Mexico City
6. 3394-Day Old Mole Madre: A Taste of History
The sixth course was a profound culinary experience: Pujol’s world-renowned mole madre. Served to showcase its remarkable age, the 3394-day-old mole was presented alongside a dollop of freshly made mole. Mole, often described as a complex chocolate-based sauce, is a cornerstone of Mexican cuisine, typically served with tortillas or meats. Pujol reimagines mole as a course in itself, allowing diners to fully appreciate its depth and complexity. The remarkable contrast between the deeply earthy, almost ancient flavor of the aged mole and the vibrant freshness of the new mole was the highlight. While the aged mole is undeniably a unique and historic dish, it’s worth noting that such rich and complex flavors can be a strong experience for the digestive system. Embrace it as part of the culinary adventure!
Pujol's Famous 3394-Day Old Mole Madre
7. Traditional Flan: A Sweet Classic
Dessert arrived in the form of a generous goat cheese flan cake, sliced and served tableside. The goat cheese imparted a rich, full-bodied texture to the classic flan, complemented by a scoop of house-made vanilla ice cream for a sweet and comforting finish. Despite feeling quite full from the preceding courses, the flan was irresistible.
Goat Cheese Flan Dessert at Pujol Restaurant
8. Concha: A Final Sweet Bite
Just when we thought the meal was complete, a final flourish appeared: a plate of petite concha pastries. These sweet Mexican bread rolls had a delightful cookie-like crunch and were perfectly sized as a final, light indulgence to conclude the extensive tasting menu.
Mini Concha Pastries to finish the meal at Pujol
Vibe: Understated Elegance and Tranquility
Pujol exudes understated elegance from the moment you arrive. The entrance feels like stepping into a private estate, with smooth concrete steps leading you through a serene zen garden and into the dining space. The zen garden itself invites a moment of peaceful contemplation before the culinary journey begins, and a comfortable lounge area provides a space to relax if you arrive ahead of your reservation time.
Elegant Interior of Pujol Restaurant in Mexico City
Our group was seated in a private dining room designed for larger parties. While beautifully appointed, the expansive table made conversation across the table challenging. Interaction was best enjoyed with those seated immediately beside or at right angles.
Private Dining Area at Pujol in Mexico City
Even the restrooms at Pujol contribute to the overall experience. Each single-stall restroom is finished in almost complete black, creating a sense of intimacy and calm. Soothing sounds of ocean waves and crickets chirping fill the space, extending the restaurant’s immersive atmosphere beyond the dining table.
Service: Impeccable and Attentive
The service at Pujol was truly exceptional. The staff demonstrated a genuine commitment to ensuring every guest felt welcomed and valued.
Small details elevated the service to an art form:
- Dishes were presented to each guest in perfect unison.
- During the seabass course, staff were consistently attentive, offering additional portions of vegetables or fish.
- Any movement towards the restrooms was immediately met with staff ready to guide the way.
Exterior of Pujol Restaurant in Mexico City
While the service was flawless in attentiveness and detail, the pacing of the meal was quite lengthy. Our dinner, starting at 6:30 pm, concluded close to 10:30 pm. While perfect for an immersive culinary experience, diners preferring a quicker pace should be aware of the time commitment.
Final Thoughts: A Culinary Destination Worth Experiencing
In a nutshell: Pujol offers an unparalleled exploration of traditional Mexican cuisine, highlighted by the extraordinary, aged mole madre, solidifying its place as a leading culinary destination in Mexico City. While the seabass was a minor misstep, the overall experience was exceptional.
Highlight Dish: Baby corn with chicatana ant mayonnaise.
Price Point: Approximately 4,600 MXN or $350 CAD per person, including tip.
Would I recommend it? Yes, for a special occasion or for anyone seeking a deep dive into refined Mexican gastronomy in Mexico City, Pujol is a must-try. It’s an investment in a truly memorable culinary journey.
