Moving to Santa Fe amidst the pandemic’s quiet chaos felt like stepping into a different world. Leaving behind the urban sprawl of Los Angeles, my partner and I sought a new kind of West – one defined by vast deserts, starlit nights, clean air, and, admittedly, more affordable living. In this new landscape, we quickly discovered that food held a unique significance, especially the ubiquitous chile. Having lived across diverse regions of the US, from Georgia to Colorado, Seattle to New England, I was struck by how deeply chile embodies the essence of New Mexico. Here, “green chile” is more than just a plant; it’s a culinary cornerstone, a dish that morphs from hearty stews to vibrant salsas, blanketing almost every plate imaginable.
Green chile is undeniably woven into the fabric of New Mexico. Yet, as a food journalist, I found myself grappling with a fundamental question: What exactly is New Mexico green chile, and why does it hold such a prominent place here? Despite numerous articles, a truly satisfying answer remained elusive.
To unravel this culinary mystery, I turned to Dave DeWitt, a renowned New Mexico-based chile historian and author of over 20 books, including the recent Chile Peppers: A Global History. DeWitt clarified that “New Mexico green chile” refers to a specific pod type – essentially, a chile shape. Unlike bell peppers, which are stout and rounded, New Mexico green chiles are elongated and slender, typically ranging from five to twelve inches. Interestingly, the designation isn’t tied to a specific growing location like Champagne; New Mexico green chiles are defined by their characteristic shape, not their origin. However, the story of New Mexico Hatch Chile adds another layer of complexity. The name “Hatch” does denote origin, specifically the Hatch Valley in New Mexico, and not just a generic variety. There are ongoing efforts to legally protect this prestigious label, recognizing the unique terroir and quality associated with chiles grown in this region.
But the core of my inquiry persisted: Why is chile so central to New Mexico’s culinary identity? DeWitt’s insight was key: “New Mexico green chile is a food in addition to being a spice.” This dual nature is precisely what underpins its culinary importance. Unlike intensely spicy peppers used primarily as seasonings, New Mexico chile possesses a nuanced heat spectrum, ranging from mild enough to be enjoyed as a vegetable to fiery enough to add a significant kick. You can savor generous portions of it – stewed, roasted, or fried – in a single sitting. This is in stark contrast to peppers like habaneros, whose extreme heat limits consumption to mere dashes. Chile strikes a perfect balance: spicier than a bell pepper yet fleshier than a jalapeño, offering an ideal marriage of texture, sweetness, and spice.
The variability in heat levels within New Mexico green chiles, particularly New Mexico Hatch Chile, is a crucial aspect of their appeal. You have the flexibility to choose your desired spice level, gradually building intensity in dishes. Their inherent sweetness allows for generous use in stews without becoming overwhelmingly hot, maintaining a pleasurable eating experience. Consider black pepper, as DeWitt aptly pointed out: attempting to achieve extreme spiciness solely with black pepper would render a dish unpalatable and harsh.
While New Mexico chile boasts a rich history spanning centuries, its modern identity is a more recent development. Four hundred years ago, chiles in the region lacked the uniformity we see today. Instead of a dominant pod type with consistent size and shape, a diverse array of chile forms existed, some resembling jalapeños, others long and thin.
The standardization of New Mexico chiles, including New Mexico Hatch Chile, into recognizable types is a result of genetic selection. This process, distinct from genetic modification, involves saving seeds from plants exhibiting desirable traits like spice level, sweetness, color, and size, and propagating these traits over generations.
The introduction of chile plants to New Mexico was a consequence of Spanish colonization, an era marked by both cultural exchange and colonial violence. Kelly Urig, in her book New Mexico Chiles: History, Legend and Lore, cites a journal entry from a Spanish colonizer in 1582: “They have no chile, but the natives were given some to plant.” By 1598, when Juan de Oñate inflicted brutal subjugation upon the Pueblo peoples, chile cultivation was undoubtedly established in the region, according to historical consensus.
Initially, the absence of pre-colonial chile in New Mexico seemed paradoxical. Chile, originating from South America, had been integral to Mesoamerican cultures for millennia. However, archaeological evidence supports the historical record: no chile remnants have been found at New Mexico archaeological sites, although traces of chocolate, for instance, have been discovered in bowls at Chaco Canyon. This lack of physical evidence, combined with historical accounts – albeit from a colonial perspective – informs the prevailing historical view.
Following its introduction, chile thrived in northern New Mexico, the heart of Spanish colonization. Santa Fe, founded in 1610, became the capital, predating the United States itself. Over centuries of cultivation in New Mexico, landrace chiles evolved – strains uniquely adapted to the specific altitudes and terroirs of the region. New Mexico Hatch Chile is a prime example of such a landrace, flourishing in the Hatch Valley.
However, the evolution of New Mexico chile wasn’t solely a natural process. New Mexico State University played a pivotal role in popularizing green chile, including varieties that would become known as Hatch Chile. Their efforts extended to breeding more drought-resistant strains and, crucially, selectively breeding plants to reduce heat levels. This made chile more accessible to a wider palate, enabling greater consumption and, consequently, increased market demand for farmers. This intervention significantly shaped the New Mexico Hatch Chile we know and love today, balancing flavor and heat for broad appeal.
In conclusion, New Mexico Hatch Chile is more than just a pepper; it’s a symbol of New Mexican identity, a product of history, terroir, and agricultural innovation. From its versatile culinary applications to its nuanced flavors and heat levels, Hatch chile offers a unique taste of New Mexico. Whether roasted, stewed, or incorporated into countless dishes, experiencing New Mexico Hatch Chile is essential to understanding the heart of New Mexican cuisine.
