While many in the United States are well-acquainted with the savory delights of Mexican cuisine, from ubiquitous tortilla chips and salsa to the taco craze, the realm of Mexican desserts and pastries often remains unexplored territory. Neighborhood paleterías offering vibrant popsicles and the occasional panadería with conchas might offer glimpses, but for many, familiarity with Mexican sweets may begin and end with flan and churros – ironically, the latter being Spanish in origin. Even tres leches cake, though popular, actually hails from Nicaragua.
My own journey into the heart of Mexican Pastry began during a 2013 trip to Mexico City, revealing a breathtaking panorama of cakes, pastries, elaborate gelatins, and candies. These sweet creations, while just as integral to Mexican culinary tradition, frequently play a supporting role in discussions dominated by tacos, enchiladas, and mole. Stepping into a Mexico City panadería, like the renowned El Globo, is akin to entering a sugary dreamscape. Towers of tempting treats are artfully arranged throughout the store, inviting exploration. The experience mirrors that of Korean bakeries: you select a tray and wander through aisles of delights, using tongs to pick your desired pastries from open displays. Unlike many American or European bakeries with their counters and glass cases, here, the pastries are openly accessible, creating an immersive and inviting experience.
Among the myriad of uniquely Mexican baked goods, one pastry persistently caught my eye with its distinctive appearance: the Garibaldi. Its intriguing form beckoned until curiosity finally triumphed, and I indulged. Garibaldis are essentially upside-down pound cake muffins, generously glazed with a shimmering apricot jam and then lavishly rolled in white nonpareil sprinkles. Variations sometimes feature a rich dollop of chocolate ganache crowning the top or a swirl of cajeta, a luscious caramel crafted from goat’s milk, reminiscent of dulce de leche in its creamy sweetness.
These charming little cakes boast a history as captivating as their flavor. Legend has it that Garibaldis originated in the very same El Globo bakery, established in 1884 by an Italian immigrant family. The tumultuous Mexican Revolution forced the family, along with many other Europeans, to seek refuge outside of Mexico, leading to a temporary closure of the beloved bakery. However, El Globo triumphantly reopened its doors in 1923, ready to continue its sweet legacy.
While El Globo is often credited with their popularization, another Italian immigrant bakery, Alberto Laposse, is also recognized as a potential inventor of the Garibaldi cakes, naming them in honor of the celebrated Italian revolutionary, Giuseppe Garibaldi. Despite their Italian roots, these delightful muffins have become thoroughly ingrained in Mexican culinary identity, as much a part of the local food scene as the iconic tacos al pastor. In Mexico City, you’ll witness countless individuals starting their day by savoring these buttery, jam-kissed treats alongside their morning café con leche, a testament to their enduring appeal and status as a quintessential Mexican pastry.
Have you ever had the pleasure of tasting a Garibaldi or explored the wider world of Mexican pastries? Venturing beyond the familiar tacos and into the realm of pan dulce reveals a rich and diverse landscape of flavors and traditions waiting to be discovered. From the humble concha to the festive rosca de reyes, Mexican pastry offers a sweet adventure for every palate.
