Driving east on Hwy 380 towards Lincoln County, New Mexico, you’re immediately struck by the dramatic landscape. The Valley of Fires, with its vast Carrizozo Lava Flow, stretches out before you, a stark reminder of the region’s volcanic past. In the distance, the majestic Sierra Blanca peak rises, completing this breathtaking panorama. This is Lincoln County, a place steeped in history, most notably as the backdrop for the tumultuous Lincoln County War and the rise of the infamous outlaw, Billy the Kid.
Have you ever watched the movie “Young Guns”? This 1988 film brought the legend of Billy the Kid and his gang, the Regulators, to a wider audience. Lincoln, New Mexico, and the surrounding county are where the real story unfolded. It was here, in the small town of Lincoln, that William H. Bonney transformed into the legendary Billy the Kid. The Lincoln County War, sparked by the cold-blooded murder of Billy’s employer, John Tunstall, in 1878, raged until 1881. This conflict wasn’t just a simple shootout; it was a complex struggle for economic power involving businessmen, ranchers, lawmen, and vigilantes. The image below showcases the only authenticated photograph of Billy the Kid himself, a stark reminder of the real person behind the myth.
Recently, we embarked on our own journey through this historic landscape, following the Billy The Kid Trail (U.S. Hwy 70) in the Hondo Valley of Lincoln County. More than just a drive, it was an immersive experience, allowing us to delve into the history of the Lincoln County War and truly appreciate a part of New Mexico often just passed through on the way to other destinations. It was a trip dedicated to slowing down and savoring the details.
Our base for exploration was the charming Orchard House, an adobe cottage nestled in San Patricio along the Rio Ruidoso. San Patricio, a quaint community, boasts its own connections to Billy the Kid and his Regulators, rumored to have used it as a hideout. Furthermore, it’s renowned as the home of the celebrated artist Peter Hurd. Today, his legacy continues through his son, Michael Hurd, an artist himself, who runs the Hurd La Rinconada Gallery and Guest Homes. Here, visitors can admire the works of the Hurd family and other talented artists. Staying at the Orchard House, one of their guest homes, provided a perfect blend of comfort and historical ambiance.
Adobe cottage nestled in San Patricio, New Mexico
The Orchard House, enveloped by towering elm and cottonwood trees and a stone’s throw from the Rio Ruidoso, proved to be a haven for birdlife. Each morning and evening, we found ourselves drawn to the patio, gazing at the serene pasture leading to the Rio Ruidoso bosque, serenaded by the melodies of countless birds. It was a tranquil and rejuvenating way to begin and end each day in Lincoln New Mexico.
Pastoral view from Orchard House cottage in Hondo Valley, San Patricio, New Mexico
Exploring the Museums of Historic Lincoln, New Mexico
Our days were dedicated to sightseeing, with our primary focus being the town of Lincoln itself. This small community’s very existence revolves around the Lincoln County War and the figures who shaped it. Remarkably, many of Lincoln’s original buildings have been meticulously preserved, with some now serving as captivating small museums.
Portrait of John Tunstall, whose murder ignited the Lincoln County War
The Tunstall Store Museum stands as a testament to history. Constructed in 1877 by John Tunstall (pictured right), this building wasn’t just a store; it housed the Lincoln County Bank, various law offices, and even Tunstall’s living quarters (as seen in the images below). It was Tunstall’s burgeoning business that was perceived as a threat, ultimately leading to his tragic murder at the young age of 24 and triggering the Lincoln County War.
Stepping inside the Tunstall Store Museum is like traveling back in time. The original counters, floors, and structural elements are still intact. While plywood has been laid over some floorboards in the aisles to protect the originals, glimpses of the historic flooring remain visible. The museum’s collection features a diverse array of artifacts from the era, offering a tangible connection to Lincoln’s past.
Inside the Tunstall Store Museum, Lincoln, New Mexico
Historical merchandise displays at the Tunstall Store Museum in Lincoln, New Mexico
Antique shoe display at the Tunstall Store Museum in Lincoln, New Mexico
John Tunstall’s Living Quarters at the back of the store
Beyond the Tunstall Store, Lincoln’s museums showcase a range of artifacts that paint a picture of life in the Old West.
Stagecoach: We spent time examining the stagecoach on display at the Courthouse Museum, imagining the arduous and uncomfortable journeys endured by travelers of the era.
Stagecoach exhibit at the Courthouse Museum in Lincoln, New Mexico
Vintage mail delivery truck at the Tunstall Store Museum, Lincoln, New Mexico
U.S. Mail Cart: This mail cart represents a significant piece of American history. In 1890, the majority of Americans lived in rural areas and had to travel to town to collect their mail. While urban areas enjoyed free mail delivery, it wasn’t until 1896 that rural free delivery (RFD) was established, revolutionizing communication for rural communities. This cart is an early example of postal service vehicles used for RFD.
The Old Lincoln Church: While no longer in use or open to the public, the Old Lincoln Church remains a striking presence in the heart of Lincoln, a silent witness to the town’s long history.
The Old Lincoln Church, a historic landmark in Lincoln, New Mexico
For anyone fascinated by the history of the American West, the Lincoln Historic Site is an unmissable destination. Described as an 1880s town frozen in time, it features “17 structures and outbuildings, 7 of which are open year-round and 2 more seasonally as museums.” The architecture itself, predominantly Territorial Style adobe, is a significant feature of the American Southwest.
The Beauty of Nature and Art at Hondo Iris Farm and Gallery
A vibrant iris bloom at the Hondo Iris Farm and Gallery in San Patricio, New Mexico
A short drive from San Patricio led us to the Hondo Iris Farm and Gallery. Although we arrived slightly past the peak bloom season, the gardens still offered a stunning display of color and beauty. A leisurely stroll through the iris beds was a delightful way to spend a morning.
Rows of iris blooms at the Hondo Iris Farm and Gallery in San Patricio, New Mexico
The farm cultivates irises, harvesting, dividing, and potting the bulbs for sale to visitors. Before departing, we selected a few favorites, including the captivating “In Living Color” iris, to bring a piece of Hondo Valley beauty back to our own garden.
Delving into History at Fort Stanton
Further explorations took us to the Hurd Gallery, Fort Stanton Historic Site, and the Fort Stanton Merchant Marine & Military Cemetery. Fort Stanton, established in 1855, initially served as a military fort before being converted into a Marine Hospital in 1899, specializing in the treatment of tuberculosis. Many of the original buildings, stables, and corrals are remarkably well-preserved. We found the numerous historical photographs on display to be particularly captivating. Below are a few of the most striking images from Fort Stanton, along with a photo of the cemetery. The first image, depicting Buffalo Soldiers, was particularly impactful.
Historical photograph from Fort Stanton, New Mexico, depicting two men
[Buffalo Soldiers in Camp at Fort Stanton]
Historical photograph of Buffalo Soldiers at camp, Fort Stanton, New Mexico
Photograph of Tuberculosis Patients and Hospital Staff at Fort Stanton Marine Hospital 1899
Historical photograph of Tuberculosis patients and staff at Fort Stanton Marine Hospital, 1899
Fort Stanton Merchant Marine & Military Cemetery
Fort Stanton Merchant Marine & Military Cemetery, Lincoln, New Mexico
After days filled with historical exploration and sightseeing in Lincoln New Mexico, we felt a well-deserved afternoon cocktail was in order. We had planned to visit the Glencoe Distillery, but unfortunately, it is now permanently closed due to the impact of the Covid pandemic.
The now-closed Glencoe Distillery in Lincoln County, New Mexico
We hope you’ve enjoyed this glimpse into the Billy the Kid Trail and the rich history of Lincoln County, New Mexico.
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