Los Angeles is celebrated as a mecca for Mexican food, a vibrant tapestry woven with regional specialties and innovative culinary expressions. You might find yourself biting into an al pastor taco, the pork glistening with a flame-kissed char, the salsas bursting with fresh flavors – a seemingly perfect bite. Yet, for all the city’s accolades, a subtle yet significant detail often holds back the experience from true Mexican food heaven: the tortilla.
More often than not, the corn tortillas, the very foundation of so many beloved dishes, can be underwhelming. They might possess the unyielding texture of roofing shingles and carry a faint, unsettling hint of baking soda. This isn’t always the case, but the reliance on pre-packaged tortillas, laden with preservatives, is a widespread issue that impacts the overall quality of Mexican food in Los Angeles.
For those who have experienced truly fresh, flavorful tortillas, the difference is stark. Imagine someone accustomed to daily fresh-baked bread suddenly encountering mass-produced, shelf-stable loaves. This is the tortilla dilemma in Los Angeles. While the fillings, the guisados, the salsas, and the service might be top-notch, the tortilla, an indispensable component, can fall short.
This isn’t just a matter of personal preference; it’s about authenticity and flavor. A genuine corn tortilla, made with just corn, water, and lime, should be a revelation in itself. The addition of preservatives to extend shelf life inevitably compromises the taste, often resulting in those faintly sour or artificial aromas that detract from the dining experience.
Food historian Gustavo Arellano, author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America, points out the historical context. As tortillas became a staple in the US in the mid-20th century, large brands prioritized mass production and convenience over traditional methods. This led to the dominance of processed tortillas, a trend that, while convenient, has diluted the potential for truly exceptional Mexican food.
However, a new wave is rising in Los Angeles – a “maize revolution,” spearheaded by chefs and restaurants who are placing the tortilla at the forefront. They understand that truly great Mexican food begins with the foundation: the corn.
Carlos Salgado, of the Michelin-starred Taco Maria in Orange County (a short drive from Los Angeles and a must-visit for serious Mexican food lovers), is a leading figure in this movement. He recognized early on the critical role of tortillas and built his acclaimed restaurant around the principle of using heirloom corn and freshly made masa. Salgado sources exceptional corn from Masienda, a company specializing in heirloom varieties, and mills his own masa in-house daily.
For Salgado, this isn’t just about taste; it’s about honoring tradition and elevating Mexican cuisine. He believes that tortillas deserve the same level of attention and care as fine bread in world-class bakeries. This commitment translates to tortillas with unparalleled flavor and texture, a far cry from the mass-produced alternatives. While Taco Maria is located just outside of Los Angeles, its influence and the availability of its masa to other restaurants within LA is significant.
This dedication to quality extends beyond Taco Maria. In Los Angeles, several restaurants are embracing the maize revolution, prioritizing freshly made tortillas and heirloom corn. While a comprehensive list is always evolving, here are a few notable examples where you can experience exceptional tortillas and genuinely best Mexican food in Los Angeles:
- Broken Spanish: Located in Downtown LA, Broken Spanish, as mentioned by Salgado, is known for its modern and refined take on Mexican cuisine, and importantly, utilizes high-quality masa, often sourced from Taco Maria or similar providers, ensuring a superior tortilla experience.
- Guerrilla Tacos: While known for their inventive taco fillings, Guerrilla Tacos also pays attention to the tortilla. They often feature different types of tortillas, including those made from heirloom corn, demonstrating a commitment to quality beyond just the taco fillings.
- Sonoratown: This popular spot in Downtown LA specializes in Sonoran-style tacos, and critically, they make their flour tortillas fresh in-house daily. While not corn tortillas, their dedication to fresh, handmade tortillas is a hallmark of quality and authenticity.
When seeking out the Best Mexican Restaurants In Los Angeles, pay attention to the tortillas. Ask if they are made fresh daily, inquire about the type of corn used, and notice the texture and aroma. A truly exceptional Mexican restaurant will not only excel in its guisados and salsas but will also honor the tortilla as the crucial foundation of the meal.
The quest for the best Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles is a delicious journey. By seeking out establishments that prioritize quality tortillas, you’ll unlock a deeper appreciation for authentic Mexican flavors and experience the true potential of Los Angeles’ vibrant Mexican food scene. The tortilla, often overlooked, is the key to elevating the entire experience, transforming a good taco into a truly unforgettable one.
