You’re anticipating the most exquisite taco of your life. The star – impeccably cooked, flame-kissed al pastor pork, expertly sliced – is undeniably perfect. The salsas – a robust, taqueria-style guacamole, a vibrant salsa verde, and a deep, smoky salsa roja – are equally masterful. Fresh, finely minced onion and cilantro complete the picture.
But then you bite into the corn tortilla, and disappointment hits. It’s tough, almost like cardboard, with a faint, off-putting taste of baking soda.
Unfortunately, this scenario is more common than many Angelenos would like to admit. Despite Los Angeles’s celebrated status as a haven for diverse and exceptional regional Mexican cuisine, a critical flaw often undermines the experience: the widespread use of pre-packaged tortillas laden with preservatives and additives that impart a metallic taste. This reliance on subpar tortillas prevents LA from truly claiming the crown for the best Mexican food.
This is a tough truth for a Mexican-American Angeleno like myself to acknowledge. Having grown up in East Los Angeles and spent years exploring the city’s taquerias, I’ve long admired the local taqueros. However, the issue became starkly clear when my girlfriend, recently arrived from Mexico, joined me on my taco adventures. At even the most highly-regarded taco spots in LA, she would consistently discard the tortillas, eating only the fillings.
Coming from a culture where fresh corn tortillas are a daily staple, akin to fresh French baguettes, her reaction was understandable. It highlighted a key difference between Mexican and American food culture – a tendency in the US to prioritize convenience over flavor, particularly when it comes to tortillas. This convenience-driven approach is reflected in the prevalence of mass-produced, flavorless tortillas.
Tortillas in the United States have, sadly, undergone a “Wonderbread treatment.” Just as good bread requires simple ingredients – flour, water, and salt – authentic tortillas should only contain corn, water, and lime. The simplicity of a tortilla makes any added preservatives or additives immediately noticeable. The subtle sourness and artificial aroma present in many store-bought tortillas are giveaways. While these processed tortillas are readily available and often masked by flavorful fillings, the compromise in taste is undeniable, especially for those accustomed to the pure, unadulterated flavor of fresh corn tortillas.
For Los Angeles to truly claim the title of having the best Mexican food in the United States, this tortilla issue needs to be addressed. Gustavo Arellano, editor-in-chief of OC Weekly and author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America, explains that the shift towards convenience occurred historically. “When tortillas became widely popular in the 1960s and 1970s, there weren’t established mainstream brands. Then, major brands like Mission and Guerrero emerged to capitalize on the demand. Mexicans need tortillas, regardless of the quality.” Arellano’s book details the rapid rise of tacos in the US, even recalling a time when tortillas were available in cans.
But a growing movement is pushing back against this trend. Similar to the emphasis on quality ingredients in world-class bakeries, a new wave of chefs and restaurants is prioritizing high-quality corn and the art of tortilla making.
While some restaurants still resort to importing superior tortillas, often through unofficial channels, a more impactful change is emerging: the maize revolution, spearheaded by chefs like Carlos Salgado of Taco Maria in Orange County. Salgado recognized the tortilla discrepancy early on and built his acclaimed restaurant around combating the low standards perpetuated by GMO corn and mass-produced tortillas. “I became aware of the complex social and economic issues surrounding corn tortillas, so pre-packaged options like Maseca were never a consideration for us,” he states.
For Salgado, recognized as Food & Wine’s Best New Chef in 2015, tortillas are a deeply personal matter. Growing up in his parents’ Mexican restaurant, he witnessed firsthand the customer backlash when they slightly increased taco prices. “The turning point for me was realizing I didn’t want to be constrained by the expectation of ‘cheap’ Mexican food. I decided to value corn and corn tortillas as much as top bakers value bread, even if it meant milling everything ourselves.”
To achieve this, Salgado sources heirloom maize from Masienda, a New York-based company specializing in high-quality maize for chefs committed to authentic flavor. While Salgado’s tortillas are significantly more expensive than standard packaged tortillas – around ten times the price – he emphasizes that it’s not about profit. “We don’t make money from the masa business; we sell it because our corn mill produces more than we need for Taco Maria.” By purchasing corn in bulk and milling his own masa, Salgado has created a small ecosystem, supplying his exceptional heirloom tortilla masa to other notable Los Angeles restaurants like Broken Spanish and Otium.
“In terms of flavor, each heirloom corn variety is a revelation. Our tortillas are moister, and the aroma is intensely reminiscent of a traditional tortilla factory,” Salgado describes.
Whether Salgado’s dedication will inspire a widespread shift in Southern California towards tortilla consciousness remains to be seen. However, for those who value authentic Mexican culinary experiences, like my girlfriend, myself, and Chef Salgado, there’s no turning back. The quest for the Best Mexican Food In Los Angeles must include a demand for better tortillas. Seeking out restaurants that prioritize fresh, quality tortillas is crucial for truly experiencing the best that LA’s Mexican food scene has to offer.
