Baja California, often whispered about in hushed tones among surfers, is a land of legendary waves and untold adventures. My name is Justin Gregory, a San Diego surfer, and I’ve lost count of the trips I’ve made into Northern Baja California, Mexico – a region many of us call the promised land for right-hand waves. Over the years, my Mexican escapades have been a mixed bag, from run-ins that would make a thriller novelist blush to moments of pure surf bliss, shared with welcoming locals and fueled by incredible food.
So, why keep returning to a place with a reputation as rugged as Baja? Because beyond the edge, lies surfing perfection, uncrowded lineups, genuine hospitality, and experiences you simply can’t find anywhere else. Despite my intimate knowledge of navigating south of the border, I never imagined myself as the one to pen the ultimate guide to surfing Northern Baja California, Mexico. Yet, here we are. While I might grumble about media portrayals of Mexico, a part of me secretly appreciates that it keeps the hordes away from our waves. The “old me” might have even joked about building a border wall – not to keep people out, but to keep other surfers away from my secret spots!
The US-Mexico border wall at Tijuana, separating it from San Diego County, symbolizing the gateway to surfing adventures in Baja.
The Border Wall Separating Tijuana From South County San Diego
However, years of unforgettable memories forged in Baja have changed my perspective. True appreciation means sharing the knowledge gained, allowing others to experience the magic for themselves, safely and respectfully. This guide isn’t just about waves; it’s about understanding Baja. It’s about the essential knowledge needed to navigate a different culture, ensuring you’re not just another naive tourist, but a prepared and respectful visitor. Because let’s be real, venturing into Baja without the right understanding can lead to trouble, or worse. Many of the lessons in this guide were learned the hard way, through personal missteps and lucky escapes. Consider this your hard-earned wisdom, distilled into a guide for your own surfing adventures in Mexico.
Setting the Record Straight: This Isn’t Your Typical Surf Spot Guide
If you’re searching for a curated list of Baja’s best surf breaks, you’ve come to the wrong place. The last thing I want is to contribute to overcrowding my beloved waves. Imagine my dismay if, on my next Baja trip, I discover my favorite spot swarming with surfers, all thanks to me. No surfer wants a bounty on their head!
Let’s be frank: you don’t need me, or anyone, to tell you where to surf. Surfline and Google Maps reveal every mainstream spot anyway. But I’m here to tell you, that’s not the Baja way. There’s a richer, more rewarding approach. Embrace exploration, ditch the pre-planned itinerary, and you might just stumble upon the best wave of your life.
Stick with me, and I’ll lay it all out.
In this guide, we’ll cover:
Important Disclaimer: Forget fluffy top-ten lists and generic travel advice. This is a deep dive into my YEARS of surfing Northern Baja. This isn’t your buddy’s casual recommendation; it’s a comprehensive guide packed with essential, often unspoken, knowledge you won’t find anywhere else. We’ve left out the fluff and included everything you absolutely need to know to make the most of your surfing trips in Mexico.
Mexico: Danger Zone or Surfer’s Paradise? Separating Fact from Fear
The media often paints Mexico as a dangerous, lawless territory, a place where foreigners become instant targets. It’s a perception I understand, having once shared it myself. My perspective shifted after spending a day in Tijuana with Cecilia, a Tijuana native whose father, a politically connected attorney, exposed her to the inner workings of the city from a young age.
During that day, as a naive seventeen-year-old, I picked Cecilia’s brain. She didn’t sugarcoat the cartel violence or deny police corruption, acknowledging these realities. But she also shared a crucial insight I’ve never forgotten: “In Mexico, if you seek trouble, it will find you. But if you are responsible, Mexico will treat you like royalty.”
Decades and countless Baja trips later, Cecilia’s words ring truer than ever. But what exactly does “seeking trouble” mean? It’s more nuanced than you might think.
Enjoying fresh lobster in Puerto Nuevo, Baja California, Mexico, a culinary highlight for surfers in Mexico.
Myself and some friends eating some lobster in Puerto Nuevo
Seeking trouble includes breaking the law (which differs from US laws), attracting negative attention (or any unnecessary attention), and being blindly naive. Think of military briefings before entering a new country – they highlight different rules, cultures, expectations, and consequences. Mexico, thankfully, isn’t a war zone, but understanding these principles is crucial. 95% of what you need to know is in this guide.
Every issue I’ve faced in Baja stemmed from my own actions, often unintentional. Understanding this shifts your perspective on those “horror stories.” If your typical night out resembles The Hangover, Baja might be a gamble. You could wake up in a cockfighting ring, wallet and phone gone, friends vanished. Or worse, become a target for those preying on foolish tourists.
Late nights, excessive drinking, flashing cash, drug seeking, or disrespecting locals – these are invitations to trouble. You might end up with a wild story, a dangerous encounter, or tragically, become the next headline victim.
If you’re quick-tempered, argumentative, unwilling to let minor issues slide, can’t handle alcohol, or prone to violence, Baja isn’t for you. If you can’t adapt to different cultures, are too lazy to learn about your destination, Baja isn’t for you. If you rely on others to solve your problems, or lack resourcefulness, either travel with capable companions or reconsider Baja altogether.
For the rest of you, the holy land of surf awaits.
Baja Essentials: Pack Smart, Travel Light for Surfing Mexico
Packing for Baja shouldn’t be stressful. Don’t overthink it. Everything you need is already there. Focus instead on what not to bring.
Essential items for a Mexico surf trip: HoStevie! Surf Cap, Cash, Wax, Passport, Keys, and Sunglasses, highlighting key travel necessities for surfers in Mexico.
HoStevie! Surf Cap, Cash, Wax, Passport, Keys, and Sunglasses
Passport: Essential. Obvious, but worth stating. While an enhanced driver’s license sometimes works for Mexico and Canada, a passport is the safest bet. Mexican authorities don’t typically check documents upon entry; it’s upon re-entry to the US that you’ll need it.
Cash is King. Negotiation is part of the culture in Mexico. Cash gives you leverage. For day trips, $200 USD is a good starting point. For 24 hours, you can have a blast for under $200. Emergency cash is wise. As a friend says, “$20 moves mountains down here.”
Bring credit cards, leave debit cards at home. Credit cards offer better protection against fraud and scams – easier chargebacks if things go wrong. Credit cards are generally safe at reputable establishments. Use cards without international transaction fees.
Pro Tip: Avoid Mexican ATMs if possible. Fees are high, and language barriers can lead to mistakes. Use a US ATM before crossing the border.
Full Tank of Gas: Mexican gas is cheaper per liter, but quality can be questionable. US gas stations are preferable for filling up. If you need to refuel in Mexico, opt for premium gasoline.
Refueling a car in San Ysidro, San Diego, before crossing the border, emphasizing the importance of starting with a full tank for surfers in Mexico.
Filling Up My Tank In San Ysidro, San Diego
Non-Essential Essentials:
- Spare car key
- Extra clothes
- Second ID
- Tool kit
- Jumper cables
- Headlamp
- Ding repair kit
- Machete/hatchet (for camping)
Mexican Car Insurance: Highly recommended, even if I’ve skipped it in the past (not proud of it). Car accidents in Mexico can be complicated. Insurance offers peace of mind.
Leave These at Home: Drugs and Firearms. Strictly illegal. Consequences are severe – Mexican jail is not a vacation.
Currency Exchange: $1 USD ≈ $18 Mexican Pesos. Round up to $1:$20 for easy calculations. Change will be given in pesos when paying with USD cash. Discreetly count your change, especially at markets and with street vendors.
Affordability Breakdown (Approximate USD):
- 6-pack domestic beer: $5
- Gas: $4/gallon
- Lobster dinner (Puerto Nuevo): $25
- Street tacos plate: $4-$6
- Hotel room (ocean view): $80-$120/night
Remember, like Vegas, expect your cash to disappear in Baja – often into “more beers, more tacos.”
Driving Baja: Realities and Road Tales for Surfers in Mexico
Driving is the preferred way to explore Baja. My one taxi experience in Tijuana solidified this. Crossing the border on foot and grabbing a cab seemed “safe” for my first solo trip… big mistake.
My taxi driver, “Pinche,” was… memorable. A rusty, caution-light-illuminated taxi driven by a one-armed man (thumb and pinky only, shaka-style), shifting gears with his knee, while on a phone call. Navigating Tijuana traffic was an experience in itself. He even offered me a cigarette, insisting I smoke it in his “Honda.”
A scene inspired by Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, humorously depicting the wild, unpredictable nature of a Mexico surf trip.
Picture Taken From Fear And Loathing Las Vegas
By the time we reached Rosarito, I vowed to drive myself in Mexico from then on. Before exiting, I asked for his business card – for comedic referral purposes only.
El Pinche's business card, a humorous memento from a memorable taxi ride in Tijuana, highlighting the unexpected transportation experiences for surfers in Mexico.
El Pinche’s Business Card. Somehow I’ve Managed To Hang Onto It After All These Years
Driving in Baja is surprisingly similar to the US. Competent drivers should be fine. Roads have improved, though potholes still exist. Pay attention to “Alto” (Stop) signs – smaller than US signs, sometimes just painted on the road. Locals often ignore them, but cops might target tourists for violations, especially at night.
An Alto (Stop) sign in a neighborhood outside of Tijuana, reminding drivers of the need to be vigilant of smaller, less conspicuous road signs for safe driving in Mexico.
Alto Sign In a Neighborhood Outside Of Tijuana
Don’t be surprised by nice cars in Tijuana and Rosarito. Many Mexicans are affluent, and California license plates are common. Blending in around these areas isn’t difficult. However, south of Ensenada, things change. Dirt roads, smaller towns, less oversight, and more isolation. Driving a fancy car with foreign plates can attract unwanted attention. The risks become more real further south.
My aim is to equip you with knowledge to have an epic Baja experience, not to scare you, but to prepare you for the realities. Dangers exist. While most Mexican law enforcement are likely honest, negative encounters can happen.
Mexican military inspecting a vehicle outside of Rosarito, illustrating the presence of law enforcement and the importance of knowing how to interact with authorities in Mexico.
Mexican Military Member Inspecting a Vehicle Outside Of Rosarito
Knowing how to handle police encounters is essential. My worst police experience in Mexico highlights what not to do. It’s a war story with valuable lessons.
“That’s right, I said TAKE ME TO JAIL!” – A Police Encounter in Mexico
This incident happened after my Tijuana day with Cecilia. I had some knowledge, but some lessons require firsthand experience.
3:00 AM, Saturday morning. Driving a friend back to our hotel after a night out in Rosarito (Mistake #1). My car: a beat-up Mazda 3, perfect for Mexican roads. Problem: Washington State license plates (Mistake #2).
Pulled over by a police truck near Papas and Beer. Immediate bad feeling. Told my friend to stay quiet, let me talk. Hide wallets under seats (Lesson #1).
A Mexican police truck, similar to the one in the author's encounter, representing the potential for police interactions and the need for caution for surfers in Mexico.
Photo Of A Mexican Police Truck That Is Identical To The One That Pulled Me Over
Prepared as if it were a US traffic stop: interior lights on, keys on dash, ID visible, hands on wheel. But the “officer” was off. Late 40s, Under Armour hoodie, no uniform, badge, or weapon. No English.
Immediately thought, “This will be easy” (Mistake #3) – arrogant and wrong.
Silence, sizing us up. Then, finger in the dust on my mirror: “500.”
Joke? “What!? No.” Disbelief in my voice. “I don’t have $500.” Pointed to my wallet on the dash. “Five hundred,” he repeated, broken English, firm tone.
A generic police traffic stop image, representing the tense moments and uncertainties of police interactions while driving in Mexico.
Photo: CNN
Conversation ensued (word for word):
Me: “What did I do?”
Officer: “You drunk.”
Me: “No, I’m not!”
Officer: “You speeding.”
Me: “Dude, you pulled me over before I could speed.”
Officer: “You no stop at stop sign”
Me: “Then write me a ticket or take me to jail.”
Officer: “Okay, I take you to jail.”
Rapid exchange, tense energy. Neither of us seemed sure how it would play out. Silence, then I repeated, “Take me to jail”, calling his bluff (Lesson #2).
He took our wallets, walked to the truck. I told my friend, “He’ll just take the cash and let us go.” Didn’t expect him to actually take us to jail for a small bribe.
Five minutes passed. Too long to just ransack wallets. Maybe this wasn’t just about cash.
Considered the situation escalating. Told my friend to record when he returned (Mistake #4 – potentially deadly). Friend grabbed my phone.
Another few minutes, different officer approached. Larger, full uniform, ARX160 rifle. Aggressive, loud “Okay!” Stopped mid-sentence, stepped back, saw the phone flash.
“Fuck. Put the phone away!” I hissed. He tucked it under the seat, but passenger door ripped open. Original officer back, grabbed my friend’s shoulder, pulled him out, seatbelt still on.
Fight or flight kicked in. Heart racing. Unbuckled my seatbelt to cooperate. My door ripped open. Hands up, signaling no threat. Uniformed officer pulled me out, slammed me onto the hood. No cuffs, just awkwardly standing there while he searched my pockets.
Chapstick, loose change thrown into the street. Felt like a POW. Friend face down on the pavement, same treatment. Officer finished searching, grabbed my groin to intimidate.
Then, bizarrely, both officers walked back to the truck, U-turned, and drove off.
“What the fuck was that!?” friend exclaimed, getting up.
“You good?” I asked.
“Yeah, I’m alright…”
Patting myself down, gathering belongings. Cash gone from wallets, but hidden cash and credit cards untouched.
A "secret stash" of cash and credit cards hidden under a car mat, illustrating a tip for protecting valuables during travel in Mexico to avoid scams.
Secret Stash
Later, reviewing phone footage, friend realized his phone was gone – stolen by the Under Armour officer, likely to remove evidence. My phone, with the video, was hidden and safe.
My assumption: Rogue officers, looking for tourist victims. When I didn’t play along, they intended to intimidate, return wallets (minus cash), and let us go. But the phone flash escalated things, forcing them to steal phones to cover up their actions.
Video lost over the years, but if found, I’ll upload it.
Mistakes and Lessons Learned
Not proud of my handling of it. Today, I’d handle it differently, quicker, less problematic. Mistakes and a few things done right.
Mistake #1: Driving at 3:00 AM. Sober, hotel 5 minutes away, still a bad idea to be out that late, especially in Mexico. Early morning/late evening driving is different, but midnight-4 AM is risky anywhere, especially in Baja.
If you need a ride late, take a taxi. Ask servers, bartenders, hotel staff for recommendations. Locals are connected and know reliable people. Taxis are often nearby, even if unseen.
A taxi in downtown Tijuana, a safe and recommended mode of transportation for surfers in Mexico, especially during late hours.
Taxi In Downtown Tijuana
Mistake #2: Washington Plates + 3 AM. Non-California plates aren’t inherently bad, but combined with late-night driving, it made us targets. Rule of thumb: don’t be the only car on the road if you want to blend in. (Still have Washington plates, traveled Baja 60+ times since, zero issues).
Mistake #3: Arrogance. Confidence is good, but nonchalance backfired. Let police feel in control. Avoid challenging their ego. FBI negotiator Chris Voss: “The art of negotiation is letting the other person have your way.” Explaining I didn’t have $500, knew I did nothing wrong, might have led to a $10 “gringo tax” and being let go.
Mistake #4: Recording. Plain stupid. Believed it escalated the situation. Officers conceal identities – masks, face coverings – to avoid recognition. Filming an officer in Mexico isn’t like a US protest. Simply don’t do it.
Mexican military personnel, often seen wearing face coverings, highlighting the security presence and the importance of respecting authority in Mexico.
Photo: The Wall Street Journal
Lesson #1: Hidden Cash & Cards. Saved us potentially hundreds, even thousands, if they’d found debit cards and forced ATM withdrawals (heard it happens). Now, I carry max $40 and one credit card in my wallet in Baja. If robbed, hand over the wallet, act dumb and scared. Let them think they cleaned you out, while you have backup cash and cards hidden.
Lesson #2: “Take Me To Jail” Bluff. Seems insane, but understand the scam. Extortion is wrong, even in Mexico. If a cop refuses a small bribe and tries to extort for something false, requesting a ticket or jail can be a power move, if said right. They often can’t do either. They want cash, not paperwork or station hassles. It calls their bluff without confrontation. When they say “No ticket, just pay me now,” show your “empty” wallet with decoy cash (cards hidden). Hopefully, they take the bait, and you move on, hassle avoided, real valuables safe.
It’s a lot to process, but if you avoid trouble, odds of this happening are very low.
Checking the waves near Primo Tapia, Baja California, Mexico, a reminder of the rewarding surf experiences awaiting those who travel responsibly in Mexico.
Checking The Waves Near Primo Tapia, Baja California, Mexico
Modern Baja: Evolving Realities and New Dangers for Surfers in Mexico
My police story is less common now. Mexico has changed in the last decade. Less police harassment of tourists. Local governments understand the importance of US relations for their economy. Likely a message passed down: “Don’t mess with innocent gringos.” Even cartels have a gentlemen’s agreement not to target tourists – bad for business.
However, rogue cartel members or thugs still exist, robbing or harming tourists they perceive as wealthy. Cartels often punish these individuals, sometimes killing them or offering them to authorities as “fall guys” to appease US concerns and media attention.
Is Camping in Baja Safe for Surfers?
Camping in Baja, an image evoking the adventurous spirit of surfers in Mexico, while also raising questions about safety and precautions.
Complex question. More rural areas are often safer and friendlier, but towns offer witness security. Northern Baja still has drug routes and criminals who don’t want interference.
Designated campsites with other campers are generally safer. Unassuming setups, without valuable toys (ATVs), reduce risk. Rural camping, Spanish speaking skills – potentially safer.
But safety is never guaranteed. If robbed, surrender belongings without resistance. Never fight Mexican criminals. No possessions are worth your life.
The surfing world was shaken by the tragic deaths of three young surfers (two Australians, one American) in May 2024, killed trying to prevent their truck from being stolen at a campsite south of Ensenada – a site I’ve camped at alone.
Personally, returning to Baja camping feels different after that news. Unless in a large group or populated area, hotels or Airbnbs might be preferable. This tragedy will likely impact Northern Baja tourism, potentially for years.
Are Cartels Really That Dangerous to Surfers in Mexico?
Paddling out to the lineup in Mexico, a serene image juxtaposed with the underlying concerns about safety and cartel presence often associated with surfing in Mexico.
The “cartels kill everyone” myth is untrue. They primarily want to steal your stuff, not kill you. Don’t give them reason to kill you, and avoid situations where you might encounter them.
Avoid driving empty roads at night, especially in nice cars/trucks. “Checkpoints” or “toll booths” can be set up by bandits or cartels on dark roads. If you encounter one, don’t panic or flee. Pay them what cash you have, and they’ll likely let you pass.
Negotiate. Haggling is expected, be polite and reasonable. “Gringo tax” is real. Cartels want your money, not your life. Accept the risk, comply, and move on. Or, follow my advice, and you likely won’t encounter them at all.
Peace Offerings & Tips for Getting Out of a Pinch in Mexico
Currency: Cash and Cerveza. One or both recommended.
Uncertainties in a new country are common. Flat tires, getting lost – minor issues can become stressful quickly. Mexican culture is empathetic and resourceful.
Be someone worth helping. Offer beers for assistance: jumper cables, firewood, directions, car watching while surfing.
Baja has a strong drinking culture. Beer is cheap and plentiful. Extra beers are great for making friends and showing appreciation.
Cash backup is crucial. Even with beer offerings, have cash for emergencies.
Beer and cash are your currencies. Now, for the food.
Tacos & Seafood: Culinary Delights for Surfers in Mexico
Amazing Mexican food is everywhere in Baja. You can’t go wrong. For sensitive stomachs or maximum safety, avoid street vendors.
Coastal Go-To’s:
Carnitas La Flor de Michoacan #2 (Rosarito): Cheap, delicious tacos and breakfast. Great for picky eaters.
Puerto Nuevo Restaurants (Lobster Village): Amazing seafood, cliffside views. Restaurants will compete for your business. Go to the end of the road, ask for rooftop ocean view.
K38 Taco Surf: Iconic surfer spot, best tacos ever. Beers next door, order tacos by finger count, chat with fellow surfers. Cash only.
Taco Surf, a legendary spot for surfers in Baja California, Mexico, known for its delicious tacos and surf culture atmosphere.
Taco Surf
Sin Fronteras Brewery (K38): Upscale vibe, American prices, weekend hangout after surfing.
Beloved Baja Band: Local band playing at Sin Fronteras and La Palapa Beach.
Surf Quality & Conditions for Surfers in Mexico
Baja waves are typically bigger and colder than San Diego. Full wetsuit recommended, even in summer.
Diverse breaks: point breaks, reef breaks, beach breaks. Regular-foot paradise, but goofy-footers can find lefts.
Avoid surfing north of Rosarito due to Tijuana sewage runoff. International tragedy. Avoid surfing after recent rainfall.
Wave-finding strategy: check reports, choose spots, drive Highway 1 along the coast past Rosarito. Countless unnamed breaks visible from the highway. Pull over, explore. Scored uncrowded waves countless times using this method.
Surfing alone at a secret Mexican break, an aspirational image for surfers in Mexico seeking uncrowded waves and personal discovery.
Surfing A Mexican Break All By Myself. Location: I’m Not Telling 😉
Discovering new spots is rewarding. Sense of pride in conquering unknown breaks, reminiscent of surfing’s early days. Easier option: Surfline maps.
Best Places to Stay for Surfers in Northern Baja
Day trips from San Diego are common, but overnight trips maximize surf time. Airbnb offers many options. Hotels also worth considering.
Las Rocas Resort and Spa: Ocean view rooms (~$80), margaritas, breakfast included. Close to waves and food. Reservations needed in summer.
Alisitos K58 Surf Point Campground: Car camping ($10/night, often uncollected). Overlooks beach break, walkable to restaurants/bars. Great surfer vibe.
Casa Playa Baja Resort: Beachfront, large groups welcome. Horseback riding, ATV rentals, catering, taxis, campfires, mariachi bands. Beach break right out front.
Hotels in Baja California, Mexico, showcasing the range of accommodations available for surfers in Mexico, from resorts to beachfront stays.
Some Friends Of Mine Enjoying The Hot Tub At Casa Playa
Many other great options exist. Explore online and along the road. Pull over if something looks interesting.
Crossing Back into the US from Mexico: Border Tips for Surfers
Crossing back into the US via San Ysidro can be a major hassle. Long waits are typical (minimum 2 hours).
Tips to Ease Border Crossing:
Wait until 9 PM or later. Late evenings have less traffic. Later is better. 8 PM crossings still involve 2-3.5 hour waits. 1-3 AM crossings can be as short as 15 minutes (contradicts safety advice, be aware).
Morning crossing (before 8 AM). Weekend mornings (5-7 AM) can be okay. Weekday mornings are often commuter nightmares.
Border Wait Time Websites (US Customs): Can be hit or miss.
Lane Navigation:
Global Entry/Ready Lane: For general use.
Sentri/Fast Pass Lane: Requires application and membership.
Lanes are poorly marked, easy to get in the wrong one. Avoid Sentri lane accidentally! Fines up to $5,000 – $10,000 for repeat offenses. Apologize profusely if you mistakenly enter Sentri lane. Don’t joke about bribes to US border patrol – they won’t find it funny.
Google Maps can lead you to Sentri Lane. Once in Tijuana downtown, follow signs for “San Diego” and “I5”, ditch GPS, use road signs. Don’t hesitate to circle back if confused. Exits are fast, easy to miss. Getting in the right lane within 5 tries as a newbie is decent.
Discover Baja Travel Club PDF Directions: Detailed PDF for San Ysidro Ready Lane navigation. Helpful passenger navigator tool.
The US-Mexico border line at Tijuana, often congested with long wait times, a common experience for surfers in Mexico returning to the US.
San Ysidro Port Of Entry, Photo: Fox 5 San Diego
Final Thoughts: Surf’s Up in Mexico
If you’ve read this far, thank you for your time. This guide should prove valuable for your Baja surfing trips. Share with a friend or two, but keep it low-key. Let’s enjoy epic waves, but avoid turning Baja into another crowded surf destination.
See you in the lineup,
Justin
