Mexico City’s El Califa de León has become the world’s first Michelin-starred taqueria, earning a coveted star in the Michelin Guide’s inaugural Mexico rankings. This historic achievement has resulted in long lines and international attention for the humble taco stand.
El Califa de León, established in 1956, has long been a beloved fixture in Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood. Its simple menu features four classic taco options: costilla (rib), bistek (steak), chuleta (pork chop), and the Michelin-recognized gaonera. Each taco is served on handmade corn tortillas, priced between $3.50 and $5. The no-frills establishment offers a few sodas but no alcohol and has no seating, requiring patrons to enjoy their tacos standing up at counters.
This isn’t Michelin’s first foray into recognizing street food. A hawker stall in Singapore previously held a Michelin star (later rescinded) and a Bangkok shophouse was also awarded a star. However, the chef at the Bangkok establishment expressed regret over the recognition due to the overwhelming influx of customers.
While El Califa de León is experiencing a similar surge in popularity, the crowds are currently predominantly local. However, this is expected to change as word of their Michelin star spreads globally. The owner is considering opening a second location to accommodate the increased demand.
The Michelin star is viewed as a victory not just for El Califa de León but for Mexico’s culinary scene as a whole. Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez emphasized the significance of a taqueria receiving this prestigious accolade, highlighting the excellence of Mexican cuisine beyond fine dining. The recognition signifies a growing appreciation for diverse culinary experiences and elevates the humble taco to new heights.
El Califa de León’s Michelin star marks a groundbreaking moment for Mexican cuisine and street food worldwide, proving that exceptional food experiences can be found in unexpected places. The taqueria’s enduring popularity and recent acclaim solidify its place as a culinary destination for both locals and international travelers.
