Orlando’s Mexican restaurant scene recently lost a legend with the closing of Amigos in Altamonte Springs. This article pays tribute to Amigos, its history, and the remarkable woman behind its authentic Tex-Mex flavors, Nell Hyltin. For those seeking the best Mexican Restaurant Orlando has to offer, understanding Amigos’ legacy is crucial.
Amigos arrived in Central Florida in 1988, the same year as I did. Coming from Phoenix, I missed the authentic Tex-Mex flavors I had grown accustomed to. Orlando’s Mexican restaurants at the time offered a pale imitation, a “Flori-Mex” that left me longing for the real deal.
I wasn’t alone. Texan Andy Hyltin, visiting his father in Orlando, experienced the same disappointment. He famously whispered to his mother, Nell, “It wasn’t Mexican; I don’t know what it was.” This sparked a dream: to bring true Tex-Mex to Orlando.
Hyltin book
Years later, after a successful career in banking, Andy convinced Nell to help him open Amigos. They chose a location in Altamonte Springs, strategically positioned across from two chain Mexican restaurants. They believed authentic flavors would prevail.
Initially, however, customers flocked to the familiar chains. Undeterred, Nell took matters into her own hands. One evening, she offered free taco samples to those waiting in line at the competing restaurants, directing them to Amigos. This bold move proved successful, establishing a loyal customer base.
Nell’s dedication to quality was evident in her homemade tamales, a customer favorite. As Amigos expanded, tamale production was outsourced, but the quality eventually declined. Even the family acknowledged this. My last visit to an Amigos location in Waterford Lakes left me with a sense of nostalgia and sadness.
Nell, a woman of incredible resilience, battled cancer and a stroke before passing away at 78 due to heart complications. She left behind a legacy of delicious food and entrepreneurial spirit. Andy and his brother John eventually sold their interests in Amigos.
While Amigos may be gone, its story serves as a reminder of the importance of authenticity and passion in the culinary world. Those searching for the best Mexican restaurant Orlando offers should remember Nell Hyltin and her dedication to bringing true Tex-Mex flavors to Central Florida. Her spirit lives on in the memories of those who savored her cooking and appreciated her unwavering commitment to quality.
You can read more about Nell’s remarkable life in my 2002 profile of her in the Orlando Sentinel and her obituary, also in the Sentinel, which includes comments from the illustrator of her cookbook, “If ya ain’t a little fat, ya momma didn’t love ya!”.
