The “combo plate,” a staple in Mexican American restaurants, often goes unappreciated. Dismissed by some food critics as uninspired or inauthentic, it’s easy to overlook its significance. Even culinary authorities like Diana Kennedy have criticized these platters as overloaded and lacking refinement, particularly compared to authentic Mexican cuisine. However, these seemingly simple Mexican Plates are actually complex cultural artifacts with a fascinating history rooted in the evolution of Tex-Mex cooking.
Tex-Mex itself, the birthplace of these mexican plates, has long faced scrutiny regarding its “authenticity”. For many years, it was considered a lesser, Americanized version of Mexican food, rather than a distinct culinary tradition in its own right. This perception overshadowed the innovative and culturally rich nature of Tex-Mex cuisine, and consequently, the mexican plates it popularized.
The story of the mexican plate as we know it began around the turn of the 20th century. Otis Farnsworth, a businessman from the Midwest, visited a Mexican restaurant in San Antonio and was struck by the popularity of enchiladas and sopa de arroz among Anglo customers. This observation sparked an idea: to open his own restaurant specializing in Mexican food.
In 1900, Farnsworth established The Original Mexican Restaurant near San Antonio’s RiverWalk. A key feature of his restaurant was “the Regular Supper,” a thoughtfully arranged mexican plate that allowed diners to sample a variety of dishes like enchiladas, tamales, beans, and rice all on one plate. This format catered to American preferences for variety and value.
Later, Miguel Martinez, a Mexican immigrant and entrepreneur, further refined the concept of mexican plates. In 1922, he rebranded his Dallas restaurant, Martinez Cafe, as El Fenix, and introduced numbered mexican plates. This simple yet brilliant addition of numbers made ordering easier for English-speaking customers, solidifying the combo plate’s place in American restaurant culture and making mexican plates accessible to a wider audience.
In conclusion, while often underestimated, mexican plates are far more than just a collection of food on a platter. They represent a significant chapter in the history of Mexican-American cuisine, embodying culinary innovation, cultural adaptation, and the enduring appeal of Tex-Mex flavors. They tell a story of cultural exchange and the evolution of taste, making them a worthy subject of appreciation and exploration for anyone interested in American food history.
