Tucson, Arizona, a city embraced by sprawling cattle ranches and arid desert landscapes, boasts a vibrant Mexican-American community deeply rooted in Sonoran heritage, just a stone’s throw from the Mexican border.
By Abbie Kozolchyk
Photographs by Jackie Tran
Updated October 26, 2023
This article is inspired by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Lost in the vibrant bustle of Tucson’s Mercado San Agustin, I found myself captivated by the culinary treasures around me. My mission? To taste the legendary Sonoran coyota. From my perch at the bar in Mercado San Agustin, I watched Dolce Pastello, a charming sweet shop, with anticipation. Having already indulged in several coyotas the day before, I was determined to secure more of these golden pastries, filled with the promise of piloncillo and cajeta. The air was thick with tempting aromas – the smoky allure of fire-roasted chilies from a nearby taco stand, the comforting sweetness of cinnamon-dusted horchata, and the refreshing scent of shaved ice drizzled with vibrant fruit syrups. But it was the coyotas I craved, a true testament to Tucson’s acclaimed Mexican food.
Charming street view of Tucson’s Mercado District, highlighting colorful houses and local architecture.
This lively scene encapsulated the essence of my return to the southwestern borderlands and Tucson, celebrated as the heart of the ‘best 23 miles of Mexican food in the US’. Growing up in this southern Arizona city, home to a diverse population, I appreciated the beauty of the saguaro-dotted valleys, the historic adobe houses of Barrio Viejo, and the unique desert fragrance after monsoon rains. However, the true depth of Tucson’s Mexican cuisine didn’t fully resonate with me until I ventured away for college and career. Dishes like coyotas, and many other local delicacies, were unknown to me until Tucson’s gastronomic scene gained national recognition. In 2015, UNESCO designated Tucson a City of Gastronomy, a first for the United States. This honor acknowledged numerous factors, including ancient native crops, but the exceptional local Mexican food undoubtedly played a pivotal role.
My upbringing in Tucson was not entirely devoid of Mexican food awareness, especially considering its strong ties to Sonora, Mexico, just an hour south. Like many Tucsonans (approximately 40% of whom identify as having Mexican heritage), I grew up with Sonoran staples, particularly flour tortillas. These versatile tortillas were often enjoyed simply with melted cheese or filled with rice and beans, a comforting treat straight from a warm bakery bag.
Close-up of mushroom chorizo served at Boca Tacos y Tequila, showcasing vibrant colors and textures.
“The flour tortilla is a symbol of Sonoran identity,” explains anthropologist Maribel Alvarez from the University of Arizona. While I appreciate this cultural significance, the tortillas of my childhood were often the mass-produced supermarket variety, lacking the authentic, nuanced flavor. To experience the real thing, I visited Anita St Market, a family-run gem whose enticing aroma is hard to miss. This market serves incredibly large tortillas, known as sobaqueras. These impressive rounds of flour, water, shortening, and salt are stretched to almost pizza-like dimensions, as illustrated by a diagram behind the counter. Cooked briefly on a hot griddle, they become airy, chewy, and subtly blistered. While some customers, like the man beside me who drove across town for a red chili and potato burro, exhibit admirable restraint in ordering fillings, I opted for the pure, unadulterated tortilla experience. Each bite was a revelation, a taste of culinary artistry that the conquistadors, who introduced wheat for Eucharist purposes, likely never imagined. As Maribel noted, wheat evolved in the region, becoming a cornerstone of cultural identity, starting with the flour tortilla. Sonora’s favorable climate continues to make it a leading wheat producer in Mexico.
Chef Carlotta Flores preparing guacamole at El Charro Cafe, demonstrating culinary expertise and tradition.
Tucson’s Culinary Landmarks: A Taste of History
This region, straddling the US-Mexico border, is also cattle country. While Tucson still has working ranches, Sonora is the heart of Mexico’s beef industry. This heritage is reflected in the vaquero style, with its “big buckles, creased jeans, beautiful leather boots, sombreros,” as Maribel describes, a style rooted in the 19th-century charro tradition. Inspired by this image, Monica Flin established El Charro Café in Tucson in 1922. It became Tucson’s—and the nation’s—oldest continuously operating Mexican restaurant under the same family. Located in Monica’s former 19th-century home, El Charro’s downtown location is a Tucson institution. It’s a place where generations of Tucsonans have celebrated milestones. While many patrons come for the signature carne seca, sun-dried marinated beef, I was drawn to another Sonoran classic: caldo de queso.
A shrine dedicated to Monica Flin, the founder of El Charro Cafe, at its sister restaurant Barrio Charro, celebrating her legacy.
This rich, cheesy soup, blending cheese, potatoes, chilies, tomatoes, and onions, had somehow escaped my culinary radar until recently. It was Tucson’s rise as a food destination that brought caldo de queso to my attention, particularly after Gustavo Arellano, the Los Angeles Times food columnist and author of Taco USA, proclaimed it his “favorite soup of all time.” Upon tasting it at El Charro, I understood why. The creamy, comforting broth was irresistible, disappearing far too quickly.
El Charro, approaching its centennial, continues to innovate, notably through a partnership with Barrio Bread, the artisan bakery owned by Don Guerra. Their collaboration led to Barrio Charro, a restaurant near the Rillito River, known for its exceptional tlayuda tostadas. Arriving at Barrio Charro, I encountered a festive atmosphere – a birthday celebration for Carlotta Flores, El Charro’s matriarch. Despite gatecrashing, I was warmly welcomed by Carlotta herself and treated to a delicious tlayuda tostada. She shared captivating stories of her aunt Monica, El Charro’s founder, and the restaurant’s colorful history. To commemorate its centennial, El Charro is reviving vintage dishes like costillas de puerco and pipián de gallina. They are also compiling stories from patrons and staff, including the tale of the almendrado, an almond meringue added in the 1940s thanks to a shared family recipe.
Refreshing housemade horchata at Seis Kitchen, highlighting the creamy texture and cinnamon spice.
At Boca Tacos y Tequila, Chef Maria Mazon is also making culinary waves. A Top Chef finalist, Maria is expanding her restaurant to include Sona Tortilleria y Bodega, offering Mexican kitchen supplies and tortillas. Maria’s Mexican food is deeply rooted in regional flavors, evident in her popular macho taco, a tribute to her hometown of Navojoa. However, her innovative approach, incorporating global influences, sets her apart.
Maria Ofilia Almazan Serecer preparing traditional coyotas with cajeta at Dolce Pastello, showcasing the artisanal process.
“On Top Chef, I was adding fish sauce and sesame to mole,” Maria recounts. This culinary boldness contributed to her success. Her menu at Boca Tacos features dishes like grilled cauliflower tacos with madras curry and mushroom chorizo, alongside her signature, ever-changing chips and salsa flights, featuring salsas inspired by global cuisines. Maria aims to offer both an authentic Mexican food experience and innovative dishes that blend international flavors.
While Mexican desserts are plentiful in Tucson, Sonoran specialties like coyotas are more elusive. Originating from Hermosillo, Sonora, coyotas are traditionally a handcrafted treat often brought to Tucson from across the border. However, Dolce Pastello offers a local option. Owner Aide Almazan had pineapple and pumpkin coyotas when I first visited. While delicious, I was searching for the classic piloncillo-filled version. Aide promised to try and source them, leading to my eager return and stakeout. Finally, Aide received the anticipated call, her stepfather arriving with a basket of fresh coyotas baked by Maria Ofilia Almazan Serecer. Among the assortment were caramel, strawberry, and more pineapple, but, crucially, also the piloncillo-filled coyotas I had longed for. The taste of the piloncillo filling was extraordinary, a unique, crystallized sweetness unlike anything I’d experienced. It was a flavor that could make anyone consider staying in Tucson forever.
Tania's ‘33’ Mexican Food, a local favorite known for its authentic tamales and Sonoran cuisine.
Five Essential Mexican Food Experiences in Tucson
Sonoran Hot Dog: El Guero Canelo’s Sonoran hot dog, a bacon-wrapped sausage with beans, onions, jalapeño sauce, mustard, and mayo in a bolillo bun, is a Tucson icon and a James Beard Award winner.
Horchata: Seis Kitchen’s horchata, made from scratch with cinnamon-soaked rice, is a refreshing must-try.
Carne Asada: For classic carne asada tacos, Tacos Apson is a local favorite, serving mesquite-grilled perfection.
Tamales: Tania’s ‘33’ Mexican Food offers a wide variety of flavorful tamales, including vegan options.
Raspados: Oasis Fruit Cones elevates raspados beyond simple snow cones with creative toppings like condensed milk and tamarind.
El Charro Cafe's Caldo de Queso and a Prickly Pear Margarita, showcasing a classic soup and regional drink.
Recipe: El Charro’s Caldo de Queso
This comforting soup features simple ingredients for a deeply satisfying flavor.
Serves: 6 Prep time: 45 mins
Ingredients
- 4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 700ml beef or vegetable stock
- 8 fresh Anaheim chilies, roasted and finely chopped
- 1 medium white onion, sliced
- 300ml milk or evaporated milk
- 2 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
- 115g cubed or grated longhorn cheese, Mexican cheese, or cheddar
Instructions
- Boil potatoes in 1.2 liters of water until tender (about 10 minutes). Set potatoes aside and reserve cooking water.
- Add stock to potato water and bring to a boil.
- Add chilies, onion, milk, and salt to taste. Simmer for 10 minutes.
- Adjust seasoning and add cooked potatoes and tomatoes. Simmer for another 10 minutes.
- Serve hot with cheese in each bowl.
Plan Your Tucson Mexican Food Adventure
Getting there: Fly to Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (PHX) and drive 90 minutes to Tucson, or take a connecting flight to Tucson International Airport (TUS).
Where to stay:
- The Downtown Clifton Hotel: Offers stylish rooms and modern Sonoran cuisine. Doubles from $139.
- JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa: Features mountain views and Mexican dining options. Doubles from $294.
Booking: Explore travel packages to Tucson via Expedia or other travel websites.
Learn more: Visit visittucson.org for travel information and inspiration.
Originally published in National Geographic Traveller Food (UK), Winter 2021 Issue 14.
