Mexico, a country of vibrant contrasts and captivating beauty, has always held a special allure for travelers seeking more than just the typical tourist experience. Having visited around 20 times, I’m continually amazed by the depth and diversity it offers. From breathtaking natural landscapes to culinary nuances, warm hospitality, and a rich tapestry of cultures, Mexico caters to a spectrum of interests. It seamlessly blends bustling, American-style tourism with untouched, magical places, offering something for every kind of explorer.
For me, Mexico satisfies a multitude of desires: a touch of history, the invigorating flavors of ancient-turned-modern cuisine, and consistently pleasant weather. Its vastness promises endless exploration, with new corners to uncover on each visit.
La Paz, nestled on the Sea of Cortez in Baja California Sur, Mexico, perfectly embodies this captivating allure. It presents a more serene and genuine side of Mexico, a place where natural beauty remains wonderfully unspoiled. Echoing Graham Greene’s sentiment, “There is not so much virginity in the world that one can afford not to love it when one finds it,” La Paz offers a refreshing escape.
Sunset at Puerta Cortes Resort’s bar
Often, I encounter articles pondering “the next” hot destination, and my instinct is to remain silent, to keep hidden gems secret. It feels counterintuitive to share a uniquely beautiful place like La Paz and risk it becoming overcrowded. However, the reality is that La Paz, BCS, Mexico, a tranquil destination, could benefit from tourism, especially attracting visitors who appreciate authentic experiences over typical tourist traps.
Just a few hours north of the bustling tourist hub of Cabo San Lucas lies La Paz. As the capital of Baja California Sur, it retains a small-town, welcoming atmosphere on the Baja Peninsula. This peninsula, stretching down from California, is a fascinating region, transitioning from wine country in the north to beach paradise in the south. La Paz once served primarily as a gateway to Cabo, but with its own airport and growing infrastructure, it has emerged as a destination in its own right, offering a distinct and calmer experience.
The heart of La Paz is its charming Malecón promenade, a vibrant showcase of local art. Unlike destinations that import international artists to attract tourists, La Paz proudly displays the creations of local and regionally connected artists. Strolling along the Malecón, the absence of overwhelming crowds is a welcome relief. The beauty lies in the simple pleasures – a gentle sea breeze carrying a hint of seaweed, and unpretentious art reflecting the spirit of La Paz.
El Cortez Golf Club’s Hole #15 offers stunning views of the Sea of Cortez
One of the greatest joys of travel is connecting with locals and experiencing a place through their eyes. Wandering through La Paz, I encountered Ricardo Villareal, a local surfer preparing to open a small Mezcal bar as the sun dipped below the horizon. By day, he works as a mixologist around town, but in the evenings, his bar becomes a gathering spot for locals to “cháchara” – to chat and unwind. Over Mezcal, conversations drifted from surfing and favorite cocktails to deeper, more philosophical realms.
“La Paz is an undiscovered treasure,” Ricardo shared, “Its charm lies in its mystery, in the unknown of how far you can go.” He posed a thought-provoking question: “Have you ever doubted the existence of lively nothingness?”
Man standing in front of a building in La Paz Mexico at dusk
With a smile, he continued, “That beautiful resilience, that unique feeling, is best felt under the pink skies of La Paz. We lack some infrastructure, stores close early, and driving laws seem to be mere suggestions. Yet, we thrive, seemingly unconcerned by these flaws. It’s like stepping into a different dimension, a living western movie.”
It was Ricardo who pointed me towards the evening’s main event.
Grammy-winning horn player Terry Townson was performing that very night beneath the old grain silos, a short walk away. As it turned out, Terry is a La Paz resident, and it happened to be the city’s annual jazz festival. After his captivating performance, we shared beers on simple plastic chairs, and Terry recounted his La Paz story. A single vacation was all it took for him to decide to make La Paz his home.
“The musical variety in La Paz is incredible,” Terry explained. “One night I might be playing jazz with a quartet, the next a private event with a mariachi band. From performing the Hallelujah Chorus with a local orchestra to jamming reggae at a late-night club. I also lead La Comunidad Big Band de La Paz, a community band for anyone wanting to learn big band jazz. Being actively involved in this community is something I truly cherish.”
Aerial view of Costa Baja Hotel in La Paz Mexico
As the music faded and darkness enveloped the silos, our group wandered through the quiet streets of La Paz, enjoying the gentle warmth of the evening air, the lingering melodies still resonating.
This peaceful moment allowed for reflection on the day’s earlier adventure. My husband Michael and I had joined freediver Jorge Herrera on a trip to Isla Cerralvo, an island about an hour offshore. We traveled in a small fishing boat towards the island where Jacques Cousteau, the renowned explorer and conservationist, had established a research base. For years, Cousteau used Isla Cerralvo as a hub for marine research, drawn to its abundant marine life fueled by unique underwater topography and ocean currents. Jorge explained that the area is a prime location for big game fishing, teeming with golden grouper, marlin, swordfish, and sailfish. My own focus, however, was on spotting whale sharks.
Freediver Jorge Herrera in La Paz Mexico
Whale sharks, despite their imposing size (often over 10 feet long), are gentle giants, filter feeders with no interest in harming humans. While swimming alongside them wasn’t on my agenda that day, observing these magnificent creatures from the boat was awe-inspiring. As we watched the whale sharks glide through the water, Jorge shared, “Over 70% of this area is protected as national park, protected area, or marine reserve. Our economy is centered around eco-tourism. Unlike Cabo, La Paz attracts people who appreciate nature and respect the environment, the locals, and the place itself.”
Man standing on a beach on Isla Cerralvo in La Paz Mexico
We landed on the secluded, uninhabited Isla Cerralvo, where Jorge left us to fish for our lunch. There we were, alone on a pink-pebbled beach, an experience of utter luxury in its simplicity. This privacy, this tranquility, was all I needed. No need for fancy resorts, cameras, or Michelin-starred restaurants. Just peace, quiet, and escape. The freshly grilled fish, caught moments before, was a delightful bonus.
Living area of Puerta Cortes Vistamar Residences in La Paz Mexico
Where to Stay in La Paz, BCS, Mexico:
For those seeking a luxurious and convenient base in La Paz, Puerta Cortes offers a comprehensive experience. This resort features villas, condos, a marina, and a Gary Player-designed golf course. Crucially, it serves as a gateway to the Sea of Cortez, the “world’s aquarium” as Jacques Cousteau famously described it.
