After an exciting three-month stint in the laid-back surf town of Sayulita, the allure of a change of scenery became irresistible. I yearned for a wider array of culinary experiences, the simple pleasure of stepping outside without instantly breaking a sweat, and frankly, a break from the constant battle against dengue-carrying mosquitoes. While I often profess to be more at home in nature than in bustling urban centers, the Mexican coast had me longing for a city – and surprisingly, somewhere a bit cooler.
And Guanajuato certainly delivered on the cooler front.
Despite the bright sunshine that often bathes its picturesque streets, Guanajuato’s altitude brings a refreshing chill to the air, especially welcome after the coastal heat.
My travel partner, Dave, and I arrived in Guanajuato via an overnight bus, our eyes wide with anticipation as we took in the vibrant buildings clinging to the hillsides. Our bus journey had been surprisingly comfortable, with plush, reclining seats that allowed for a decent night’s sleep. Energized and ready to explore, we checked into our Airbnb, eager to dive into the city’s charm.
However, our exploration was abruptly halted. A sharp headache struck me, followed by a wave of nausea. Within hours, I found myself confined to the bathroom, convinced I was battling dengue fever, a common concern after our time in Sayulita where several acquaintances had contracted it. Food poisoning was another possibility, but dengue loomed larger in my mind. My first day in Guanajuato was a blur of bed rest and dashes to the bathroom.
“Just how high are we here?” I managed to ask Dave, a sudden realization dawning on me.
He rubbed his temples, looking as unwell as I felt. “Pretty high, I think,” he mumbled in reply.
A quick online search confirmed our suspicions: Guanajuato sits at approximately 2,000 meters (6,560 feet) above sea level. Altitude sickness. Could it really be this intense? The thought sparked a wave of worry about our upcoming travels in South America, where even higher altitudes awaited. Friends already at those elevations chuckled at my dramatic reaction.
My arrival in Guanajuato, to say the least, wasn’t my most heroic travel moment.
But fast forward a couple of days, fueled by copious amounts of water, and the throbbing headache subsided. I ventured out, a genuine smile spreading across my face.
This city was breathtakingly beautiful, and adding to the magic, Christmas was just around the corner!
The city was already embracing the festive season with charming decorations, including a nativity scene mounted on a truck – a delightful Mexican touch.
One of my favorite rituals upon arriving in a new city, after settling in, is to seek out a high vantage point. My first mission in Guanajuato was El Pípila, the imposing reddish-stone monument overlooking the city. This monument honors a local hero of Guanajuato, El Pípila, who played a crucial role in Mexico’s fight for independence.
The uphill walk to El Pípila proved surprisingly challenging, a combination of the altitude and my admittedly less-than-peak fitness level. But as I finally reached the summit, breathless and slightly sweaty, any discomfort instantly vanished.
The panoramic view was absolutely worth every step.
Wow.
Guanajuato was truly stunning. In that moment, I decided I wanted to make it my temporary home base, altitude sickness and all. I had previously visited Chefchaouen in Morocco, a city I had declared the most photogenic in the world. Guanajuato was quickly challenging that title.
The Airbnb apartment we had chosen turned out to be exceptional. For under $40 a night, we enjoyed a beautiful space with a well-equipped kitchen and a rooftop terrace offering breathtaking views of the colorful cityscape. After spending so much time in basic guesthouses, simple luxuries like an oven, a comfortable sofa, and not having to work from bed felt like pure bliss.
However, one aspect of Guanajuato that presented a challenge was the food scene, particularly during the Christmas season. Many restaurants were closed for the holidays, and finding a place to eat often involved wandering down labyrinthine alleyways only to end up at a touristy spot serving mediocre cheese sandwiches. Breakfast was especially difficult, with most places not opening before 11 a.m.
We did stumble upon an incredible taco stand near our apartment that served delicious brain tacos, but beyond that, finding consistently good food proved tricky.
Fortunately, the discovery of a massive Mega supermarket was a game-changer. We could finally cook our own meals, freeing us from the restaurant scarcity. And the walks to and from the supermarket were an adventure in themselves, often leading us through Guanajuato’s unique network of tunnels carved into the mountains.
Speaking of tunnels, we navigated them again a few days later on our way to Guanajuato’s most talked-about tourist attraction: El Museo De Las Momias – the Museum of the Mummies. Every article I had read about Guanajuato insisted it was a must-see, promising, well, mummies.
But the experience left me with conflicting feelings and a sense of unease. While Mexican culture embraces death with a certain lightness, as beautifully evident in the Day of the Dead celebrations we witnessed in Sayulita, this museum felt ethically questionable.
In the early 1800s, a devastating cholera outbreak swept through Guanajuato, causing so many deaths that the city’s cemeteries reached capacity. To address this, a tax was implemented, requiring families to pay an annual fee to maintain burial plots. If the tax went unpaid, bodies were exhumed and removed. During these exhumations, cemetery workers discovered that some bodies had naturally mummified due to the dry conditions of the soil. These mummified remains were initially stored, but eventually, someone realized their potential as a tourist attraction. And thus, the museum was born.
The room displaying mummified children was particularly disturbing. Tiny bodies, some dressed in dresses, lay in glass cases, their mouths agape. One exhibit featured a woman who had died in childbirth, her mummified fetus, only about six inches long, beside her. Another mummy was of a woman buried alive, her hands positioned over her face in a final act of desperation. A man who had been stabbed to death was displayed with a visible wound in his abdomen. Visitors were encouraged to take photos, but the whole experience felt unsettlingly voyeuristic.
Perhaps I’m overly sensitive when it comes to death, but I couldn’t shake the feeling that the museum’s ethics were murky. After visiting, I wouldn’t classify it as a top attraction or recommend it to others. I found the entire experience deeply uncomfortable.
While I hesitate to share photos of the mummies here, a quick online search will reveal them if you are curious.
Shifting to a more cheerful subject: Christmas! Being away from home during Christmas is always a unique experience, often feeling like just another day in a different country.
This year, however, Dave was battling homesickness, a first for him. He missed his friends and family, especially his nephew. The thought of a Christmas dinner in Mexico, particularly one that might not be up to par, wasn’t filling him with holiday cheer. Especially since, in true travel mishap fashion, my attempt at a festive meal backfired.
I had confidently purchased a large cut of meat from the supermarket, only to discover days later that it was generously stuffed with bell peppers.
Dave is severely allergic to bell peppers.
Merry Christmas, darling! Enjoy your bell pepper-induced stomach cramps.
Despite Dave’s homesickness and my culinary near-disaster, we managed to salvage Christmas and create a day filled with heartwarming clichés.
Christmas music filled our apartment all day as we indulged in far too much food (bell pepper-free for Dave, thankfully). I insisted on a Home Alone and Pirates of the Caribbean movie marathon on the sofa. And we capped off the evening with a beautiful sunset view from our rooftop terrace, wine glasses in hand.
I was truly falling in love with Guanajuato.
Then, we made a crucial error: we changed apartments. I firmly believe that accommodation location can significantly impact a travel experience, and our second apartment was nearly an hour’s walk from the city center.
Under different circumstances, it might have been idyllic. It boasted stunning views of the city nestled in the hills and felt like a perfect writing retreat – peaceful, secluded, and free from distractions. However, Guanajuato was experiencing unusually low temperatures, the coldest in years, according to locals. Our new apartment became the coldest place I have ever stayed. The freezing temperatures were the main topic of conversation among locals, who repeatedly assured us it wasn’t typical. My travel wardrobe, unfortunately, did not include winter attire.
Adding to the discomfort, everything seemed to close down completely after Christmas. The only open establishment nearby was a tiny store with a limited stock of potatoes, eggs, and not much else. We subsisted on omelettes for a week.
It was a shame because our apartment hosts were incredibly kind. Witnessing our shivering state, they brought us warm stewed fruit punch, invited us into their home for breakfast, and even lent us their cat for cuddles. Their warmth and generosity were heartwarming, but I remained perpetually, profoundly cold.
In conclusion, my time in Guanajuato was a mixed bag of experiences. It is undeniably the most visually stunning city I have ever encountered. I adored our first apartment and the joy of wandering through its vibrant alleyways. Since leaving, I often think about returning during the summer months to spend a month or two based there. However, for this particular trip, it was time to move on. I was unprepared for the cold, tired of the egg-centric diet, and, as always, craving a new adventure.
Our initial plans for the rest of our time in Mexico had been ambitious: a month in Oaxaca, culinary explorations in Puebla, discovering Mexico City, and venturing south to explore lesser-known Mayan ruins.
Instead, huddled under piles of blankets in our frigid apartment, we booked a flight to Cancun.
We were in desperate need of some warmth.
We were heading straight back to the beach.
What’s the most beautiful city you’ve ever visited?
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