Venturing into the heart of the Gila Wilderness in New Mexico is like stepping back in time. As the nation’s first designated wilderness area, established in 1924, the Gila offers an unparalleled experience of raw, untamed nature. Just a few miles into this protected expanse, the modern world fades away, replaced by the sights and sounds of a pristine ecosystem. Following the muddy banks of the Gila River, one of New Mexico’s last free-flowing rivers, reveals the subtle stories of the wilderness inhabitants. A deer’s delicate hoofprint, the telltale scat of fox and coyote, and the flash of a northern flicker’s wings all whisper of a vibrant life thriving undisturbed. Perhaps the most definitive sign of the valley’s residents is the sturdy architecture of a beaver dam, a testament to nature’s enduring ingenuity.
This journey into the Gila Wilderness, accessed via Little Bear Canyon, was shared with Luke Koenig of the New Mexico Wilderness Alliance, and photographer Jay Hemphill. Together, we navigated ridges offering breathtaking views of snow-capped Mogollon Baldy, peered at ancient Apache cave dwellings through binoculars, descended into shadowed box canyons, and meandered through groves of willow trees to reach the lifeblood of this wilderness – the ice-cold Gila River. Within the vast 3.3-million-acre Gila National Forest, the 558,014-acre Gila Wilderness holds a lifetime of exploration. Even a brief encounter instills a profound appreciation for its existence and the intricate beauty of nature’s design.
The Legacy of Aldo Leopold and Wilderness Preservation
The profound value of the Gila Wilderness was recognized early on by conservation pioneer Aldo Leopold. Working for the U.S. Forest Service in the early 20th century, Leopold championed the idea of setting aside significant land areas for both ecological preservation and recreation. He eloquently argued against the shortsighted view of undeveloped land as “useless waste,” asserting that for those with vision, these wild spaces represent the most precious resource.
Leopold’s conviction in the Gila’s exceptional nature led to the Forest Service designating it as the first wilderness area in 1924. His ideals profoundly influenced the Wilderness Act of 1964, shaping federal policy to protect America’s most pristine landscapes. The hallmark of designated wilderness areas is the absence of roads and motorized vehicles. While the Gila National Forest welcomes over half a million visitors annually, only a fraction truly experience the Gila Wilderness firsthand, often glimpsing it from roadside overlooks. Others venture to its borders and immerse themselves in its wonders. Anglers are drawn to the Gila River in pursuit of native Gila trout. Geologists marvel at the volcanic formations. Birdwatchers flock to this ecological transition zone, hoping to spot species like the Montezuma quail. History enthusiasts explore the birthplace of Apache leader Geronimo and discover remnants of the ancient Mogollon Mimbres culture, renowned for their intricate pottery. Horseback riders explore backcountry trails, and Continental Divide Trail hikers undertake a route that may involve crossing the Gila River up to 100 times, conditions permitting.
Leopold’s land ethic, articulated in his seminal work A Sand County Almanac, emphasizes a shift in perspective: “When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.” His philosophy encourages valuing the natural, wild, and free, over the artificial and confined. While management approaches have evolved over a century, Leopold’s foundational vision ensures that the Gila Wilderness remains largely untamed, a testament to the enduring wisdom of nature.
Stepping into the Untamed: Experiencing the Gila Wilderness
Setting off from the TJ Corral Trailhead, a known access point to the Gila Wilderness near NM 15, is a deliberate step into a realm where self-reliance is key. As Forest Service ranger Henry Provencio notes, navigating the Gila Wilderness demands preparedness. Trails may be faint, signage minimal – a true wilderness experience.
The Gila Wilderness offers visitors an authentic encounter with nature, remarkably unchanged since the times of Apache leaders like Geronimo and Victorio in the 1800s. The landscape echoes a history of minimal human impact, preserved through both low visitation and thoughtful management focused on maintaining ecological balance. Native species, including elk, the endangered Mexican gray wolf, and the unique Gila trout, thrive here thanks to ongoing conservation efforts aimed at reversing past imbalances, such as the introduction of non-native trout and the historical eradication of wolves. The prevailing management philosophy recognizes the profound wisdom in allowing wild places to remain wild.
Our hike began with a gentle ascent through grassy juniper-dotted ridges, some bearing the marks of past fires. The precise timing of the last fire was uncertain, underscoring the natural rhythm of the landscape. Within the Gila Wilderness, events like floods and fires are not viewed as disasters, but as natural, expected processes in this southwestern environment. Provencio emphasizes that “These systems are functioning as intended, without interruption from man,” highlighting the Gila as “the largest landscape where fire is playing its natural role.”
Details in the Wild: Observing Nature’s Intricacies
As Little Bear Canyon’s cliffs enclosed us, the focus narrowed to the immediate surroundings. A quartz fragment caught the light in the sand. Vibrant watercress flourished by a small stream. Oak leaves carpeted a bend in the trail, leading to a tree scarred by wire rings, a relic hinting at past human interventions. A closer look revealed a rusty wire fragment embedded in the trunk, a vestige of a time before or perhaps during the early days of wilderness designation.
While initially, ranching was considered compatible with wilderness, Leopold’s evolving perspective recognized the ongoing human impact on natural systems. He observed erosion and flooding in Southwest watersheds linked to agriculture and timber industries. His 1924 article “Pioneers and Gullies” in Sunset Magazine stressed the importance of maintaining ground cover and managing grazing to protect watersheds. He noted the detrimental effects of livestock on native willows, advocating for fencing and willow restoration in riparian areas.
The wire-scarred tree served as a tangible reminder of the complex history of land use in the Gila. Continuing towards the Middle Fork, Little Bear Canyon opened into the wider Gila River valley, revealing a dramatic shift in scale. Towering rock columns, remnants of volcanic activity from 40 million years ago, dominated the skyline. Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir competed for sunlight, while oak and box elder filled the understory.
Returning to this wilderness after years felt like revisiting a distant memory. For my companions, Koenig and Hemphill, the Gila was a more recent experience. A newly constructed beaver dam upstream marked a change since their last visits. Beavers, though not mentioned by Leopold in “Pioneers and Gullies,” are recognized as keystone species, playing a crucial role in ecosystem health. Hemphill had observed increased beaver activity in the Gila recently, and Koenig alluded to the unique allure of fly-fishing in remote wilderness beaver ponds.
Beavers: Nature’s Engineers in the Gila Wilderness
Research by the National Park Service highlights the vital role of beavers and their dams in creating and maintaining riparian wetlands. Beaver dams create complex water flows, resulting in healthier wetlands that sequester carbon, enhance biodiversity, and raise water tables, thus bolstering ecosystem resilience.
Approaching the beaver dam offered a new perspective. Its size was even more impressive from the bank, stretching far wider than initially perceived. The pond it created, at least two to three feet deep, mirrored the cliffs and encircled a grove of white alder, some trees reaching high, others gnawed by beavers at water level.
Beaver dams naturally filter water, removing pollutants and excess nutrients before it flows downstream. Stanford University research indicates that beaver dams can have a greater impact on water quality in mountain watersheds than climate-driven precipitation extremes. The increasing beaver populations in the Southwest are particularly beneficial as the region faces hotter, drier conditions.
Connecting with the Land: A Lasting Impression
Leopold’s evolving understanding emphasized that the deepest connection with the land comes from truly observing it, fully appreciating its intricacies, and recognizing our place within it. This profound sense of wonder and community can be passed down through generations, an inheritance as vital as our genes.
Before departing, Hemphill pointed out faint red ochre markings on a cliff face downstream – ancient rock art. Among the triangles and lines, a diamond shape with small appendages sparked the imagination. Though likely misinterpreting the ancient symbols, a fleeting impression of a beaver emerged, a final reminder of the enduring presence of these ecosystem engineers in the Gila Wilderness. The Gila Wilderness, New Mexico, remains a place where the wisdom of nature continues to unfold, inviting discovery and fostering a deep appreciation for the wild.
