Df Mexico, a spin-off from the popular Wahaca chain, positions itself as a fast-casual Mexican restaurant in London. Upon entering DF Mexico, one is immediately struck by its modern and polished aesthetic. The branding is crisp, the decor is stylish, and the overall ambiance suggests a well-thought-out concept, almost as if meticulously designed for a specific demographic. It evokes the feeling of a chain restaurant that could seamlessly fit into a contemporary urban setting, much like a Leon or Busaba.
interior at df mexico tottenham court roadA vibrant and modern interior welcomes diners at DF Mexico in Tottenham Court Road, London.
With locations including one in the Truman Brewery and another on Tottenham Court Road (the subject of this review), DF Mexico appears to be a calculated venture. It feels less like a natural evolution from Wahaca and more like a concept engineered in a boardroom, complete with market research, focus groups, and business school jargon.
The ordering process is slightly unusual for a fast-food style establishment. A receptionist guides you to a table before you proceed to order and pay at the till. Service is swift, with food arriving promptly at your table. Drinks are self-service from bottomless, fast-food style dispensers. The menu is a streamlined version of Wahaca’s extensive offerings, featuring tacos, burritos, and tortas, with the option to have the fillings served on a sharing platter. The aim seems to be a dining experience that is quick, enjoyable, and perceived as fresh. However, for those accustomed to authentic Mexican flavors, the experience might feel more like a carefully constructed ‘concept’ than genuine Mexican cuisine.
touchscreen ordering at df mexicoModern touchscreen ordering system at DF Mexico, streamlining the customer experience.
decor at df mexico tottenham court roadStylish and contemporary decor at DF Mexico Tottenham Court Road, creating a modern dining atmosphere.
First Impressions: Horchata and Pork Tacos
Initial impressions were underwhelming, starting with the horchata. It was weak and watery, lacking the rich, milky flavor that characterizes a good horchata. The pork tacos did little to improve the situation. The tortillas were excessively large and thin, leading to them breaking apart easily. The pork filling itself was bland and overly soft, overshadowed by a heap of lettuce, ordinary radishes, and mild pickled onions. The beans, intended to add depth, were disappointingly bland.
horchata at df mexicoDisappointingly watery horchata at DF Mexico, lacking in traditional flavor and richness.
pork tacos at df mexico tottenham court roadUnsatisfactory pork tacos at DF Mexico, featuring bland pork and overly thin tortillas.
pork tacos at df mexicoClose-up of bland and soft pork filling in DF Mexico’s pork tacos, lacking authentic Mexican flavors.
Steak Tacos: Messy and Mild
The steak tacos shared similar issues. They were messy, oversized, and burdened with unnecessary toppings that detracted from the main ingredient. While the steak strips themselves were not entirely unpleasant – showing some char marks – they were also rather chewy and difficult to distinguish amidst the other components. The overall experience was one of a taco that was structurally unsound and flavor-wise confused.
steak tacos at df mexico tottenham court roadOverly filled and messy steak tacos at DF Mexico, with chewy steak and excessive toppings.
steak tacos at df mexicoSteak strips within DF Mexico’s steak tacos, charred but somewhat chewy and lost amongst other ingredients.
Passion Fruit Soft Serve: Sweetness Over Flavor
The passion fruit soft serve ice cream was another letdown. It was excessively sweet and only occasionally hinted at passion fruit flavor. The promised caramelized coconut was overly roasted and hard, adding an unpleasant crunch rather than enhancing the dessert. A simple 99 Flake ice cream would have been a more satisfying choice.
passion fruit soft serve ice cream with coconut at df mexicoOverly sweet passion fruit soft serve at DF Mexico, with hard and unappealing caramelized coconut.
Second Attempt: Cod Tacos and Chicken Torta
Hoping for improvement, the cod tacos were tried next. Described as featuring panko-breaded cod, the reality was disappointing. The cod was barely detectable within the stodgy, thick breading, which lacked the light, crispy texture expected of panko. Limp red onions and mayonnaise were liberally applied, adding to the messiness, while the same subpar tortillas from the pork tacos reappeared, further diminishing the experience.
cod tacos at df mexico tottenham court roadDisappointing cod tacos at DF Mexico, with stodgy breading and poor quality tortillas.
The chicken torta, a Mexican sandwich, fared slightly better by comparison. The brioche bun was unremarkable, lacking butteriness, but this neutrality was almost a positive, mirroring the plain bread often found in tortas in Mexico, which allows the fillings to shine. However, the chicken filling itself was bland and under-seasoned, though at least it was reasonably moist and firm.
chicken torta at df mexico tottenham court roadChicken torta at DF Mexico, featuring bland chicken filling and an unremarkable brioche bun.
Third Time’s the Charm? Horchata, Burrito, and Corn
On a subsequent visit, the horchata showed a marginal improvement. While still far from impressive, it was slightly less watery and had a hint of sweetness.
horchata at df mexico tottenham court roadSlightly improved horchata on a return visit to DF Mexico, though still lacking in flavor.
The chicken burrito was a more pleasant surprise. Distinct from Wahaca’s version, this burrito was compact, filling, and surprisingly held together well. It avoided excessive rice filler, and while it contained the same rather bland chicken as the torta, the crisp vegetables and smoky beans added much-needed flavor and interest.
chicken burrito at df mexico tottenham court roadMore satisfying chicken burrito at DF Mexico, compact and flavorful compared to other dishes.
chicken burrito at df mexicoClose-up of DF Mexico’s chicken burrito, highlighting the balance of fillings and compact construction.
However, the corn kernels were a definite miss. Described as crunchy, nutty, and sweet, they were instead punishingly hard, posing a dental hazard.
corn at df/mexico tottenham court roadUnpleasantly hard corn kernels at DF Mexico, detracting from the dining experience.
Another dessert attempt, the brownie, was slightly better in texture – reasonably soft – but remained bland and somewhat dry.
brownie at df/mexico tottenham court roadBland and dry brownie at DF Mexico, failing to impress as a dessert option.
The Verdict on DF Mexico
If DF Mexico represents the future of Mexican food in the UK, it raises concerns about the perception of Mexican cuisine in Britain. While there are faint glimmers of potential, the most commendable aspects of DF Mexico are currently its stylish decor and efficient service. When the speed of food delivery and the ambiance outweigh the quality of the food itself, something is fundamentally amiss.
What to order: Possibly the chicken burrito
What to skip: Everything else
Name: DF Mexico
Branch tried: 28-29 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 1BL
Phone: 020 3829 2389
Web: http://www.dfmexico.co.uk/
Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday 11.30-23.00 and Sunday 11.30-22.00.
Reservations: not really necessary
Average cost for one person including soft drinks but excluding tip: £15-25 approx.
Rating: ★★☆☆☆
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