I had heard whispers about Coyoacan being different, a unique pocket within the sprawling metropolis of Mexico City. It turned out the rumors were true. Stepping into Coyoacan felt like entering a different world, one that, while lively, possessed an inviting, almost suburban calmness, remarkably untouched by the overwhelming tourist crowds often found in areas like the Centro Histórico. This distinct atmosphere is likely due in part to the absence of large hotel chains; you won’t find the familiar names of Sheratons or Hiltons here in Coyoacan, Mexico.
This absence of major hotel brands meant my accommodation choices leaned towards charming smaller inns and local Airbnbs. My introduction to the neighborhood was at the Chalet del Carmen Coyoacán, a cozy spot just a short stroll from the iconic Blue House. For 1,330 Mexican pesos, just over $70 USD, I secured a room for the night. The following nights were spent in a centrally located private room, complete with its own bathroom, near Plaza de la Conchita. Booked through Airbnb, this comfortable lodging was an even more budget-friendly $30 per night.
My Airbnb host, Gustavo Hernández Clark, was a passionate advocate for his adopted neighborhood. Originally from Cuba, he spoke with genuine affection, stating he loved “everything about Coyoacán.” Having emigrated two decades prior, he vaguely alluded to “the situation there” as his reason for leaving his homeland. Upon my arrival, Gustavo generously guided me to one of his favorite local eateries, Taquería los Parados de Coyoacán. There, I savored a delightful plate of enchiladas suizas. These chicken-filled enchiladas were generously smothered in a zesty green chili salsa and cost a mere 91 pesos, less than $5 USD. A glass of freshly squeezed orange juice added another 35 pesos to the incredibly affordable and delicious meal.
This was just the beginning of a series of exceptional culinary experiences in Coyoacan. True to expectation, Coyoacan’s abundance of affordable street food and laid-back cafes did not disappoint. One particularly bright afternoon, I stumbled upon La Casa del Pan Papalotl. This charming vegetarian restaurant, situated on a lively plaza on Calle Xicoténcatl, was the perfect place to pause and soak in the local atmosphere. I enjoyed a creamy and refreshing banana licuado, a delightful cross between a milkshake and a smoothie, for only 32 pesos. While relaxing, I observed the vibrant street life, including vendors selling jewelry and DVDs. Nearby, an enticing basket overflowing with churros proved impossible to resist.
I purchased a bag of four of these fried, sugary delights for a mere 15 pesos, a sweet ending to a wonderful exploration of Coyoacan, Mexico.
