Venturing into the Celestún Biosphere Reserve is like stepping into a world untouched. Just a short distance from the coast, a unique landscape unfolds, distinct from the dense mangroves to the east. Here, the coastal scrub habitat takes center stage, a captivating blend of low-lying dry forest trees, expansive grasslands, and sun-baked mud flats. This terrain, interlaced with estuary waters, invites exploration on foot, promising a close encounter with nature.
Accompanied by Jesus, a Celestún local whose connection to this land runs deep, our walk becomes more than just a stroll. It’s an immersion into his lifelong passion. “I can be out here all day,” he remarks, binoculars raised, scanning the trees with practiced eyes. His sentiment resonates deeply; these moments of quiet exploration, of peaceful immersion in nature, are truly invaluable.
The tranquility is momentarily broken by the insistent pings of a messaging app on my phone. Lowering the volume, the digital intrusion persists. Finally, pausing our walk, I glance at the incoming messages.
“What’s happening?” Jesus inquires, noticing the distraction.
“It’s messages from parents back in Mérida. Several are feeling unwell, discussing remedies and medications.” Trying to explain the situation, I stumble over words, “It might be the water here… our bodies aren’t accustomed to it.”
Jesus nods knowingly. Turning towards a nearby shrub, he shares a piece of local wisdom, revealing nature’s pharmacy. “Take this,” he instructs, pointing to the plant, “mix it with red mangrove leaves, and let it simmer for fifteen days. It’s a local cure for stomach issues.” This insightful glimpse into traditional remedies adds another layer to our experience.
Continuing our exploration, the path leads us towards a collection of ruins, perched at the edge of a vast lagoon. Jesus suggests this could be a prime location for spotting motmots, birds known to seek shelter and rest within enclosed spaces like these decaying structures.
As we reach the cluster of buildings, their varied states of ruin spark curiosity. Were these the remnants of a Spanish mission? Or perhaps a clandestine pirate hideaway? Stepping inside what was once the community chapel, the sight of surprisingly well-preserved ornate tiles challenges the initial assumption of a simple mission.
The truth unveils a different narrative. This was once Real de Salinas, a thriving, albeit isolated, salt-producing town dating back to the 1900s. These buildings were homes for the people who built their lives around the salt industry.
The story of its abandonment remains shrouded in some mystery. A local newspaper, Milenio Novedades from Mérida, hints at a turning point – an act of violence by someone within Real de Salinas. This incident reportedly led Celestún to sever ties, effectively imposing an embargo on Salinas de Real, cutting off trade and essential supplies.
The consequences were devastating. Poverty engulfed the community. People were forced to flee, while others succumbed to illness and hardship, until only a solitary elderly woman was left amidst the ruins of what was once a vibrant town. Exploring these ruins offers a poignant reflection on the fragility of communities and the enduring power of nature that now reclaims its space. Celestun, Mexico, offers more than just beautiful beaches; it’s a destination where nature’s tranquility intertwines with whispers of history, waiting to be discovered.
