Is the Best Mexican Food on the East Coast hiding in plain sight? Surprisingly, it might just be. Forget the usual bustling city centers; some of the most lauded tacos, enchiladas, and authentic Mexican cuisine are being perfected in a rather unassuming location: a former Friendly’s restaurant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Chef David Vargas is drawing national attention for Vida Cantina, a casual yet sophisticated spot dishing out exceptional Mexican fare amidst the Granite State’s familiar strip malls.
For those in the know, and even newcomers to the food scene, Vida Cantina is becoming a must-visit destination. It’s not the typical tourist stop you’d expect near Portsmouth’s marinas or its growing collection of trendy bars and eateries. In fact, the author stumbled upon this culinary gem while on a decidedly less glamorous errand – searching for a Walmart off Route 1. Despite being full from a previous meal and simply passing by, the vibrant red lettering proclaiming “Vida Cantina” against a white brick wall was enough to stop in her tracks. The warm glow of the “Open” sign was an irresistible invitation.
Stepping inside Vida Cantina is like entering a different world, a stark contrast to its strip mall surroundings. The interior is a delightful surprise: plush pink and red accents, rich dark wood, and a welcoming “Hola” sign that sets the tone. Yet, a subtle hint of its past life as a Friendly’s remains, visible in the layout where dishes are served from the kitchen to the wraparound bar and comfortable booths.
Inside Vida Cantina with colorful pink and red decor, dark wood, and patrons at the bar, highlighting the restaurant's vibrant and inviting atmosphere.
Chef Vargas’s ingenuity extends beyond the restaurant’s transformation; it’s the heart of his culinary approach. His Mexican heritage, with roots in Jalisco, beautifully intertwines with the fresh, local ingredients of New Hampshire. This harmonious blend is evident in every dish. The house-made tortillas, crafted from freshly milled local corn, are a testament to this fusion. Seasonal menus feature standouts like hearty enchiladas filled with black turtle beans and tender tomatillo-braised chicken, all sourced from local farms. Diners can also look forward to ever-changing specials, such as the unique roasted pink oyster mushrooms seasoned with Oaxacan black mole powder.
The initial surprise of finding such high-caliber Mexican food in this location quickly dissolves into a sense of perfect harmony. Vida Cantina evokes a comforting, intangible warmth, the kind that turns first-time visitors into loyal regulars, drawn back not just by the fantastic enchiladas and expertly crafted margaritas, but by the overall experience. This feeling was reaffirmed on a recent Wednesday evening, as the author savored a velvety tortilla filled with crispy blue-corn-fried shrimp, refreshing baja slaw, and vibrant salsa de aguacate, perfectly complemented by a house-made agua fresca. Even on a weeknight, the parking lot was bustling, a clear sign that Vida Cantina is a destination in itself, far beyond a simple detour.
A close-up of Vida Cantina's interior, showing the bar area with patrons and food being served, emphasizing the lively and social dining experience.
Vida Cantina
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
Miles from Boston: 57
603-501-0648, vidacantinanh.com
Where to Stay
Extend your Portsmouth experience with a stay at the Ale House Inn (starting at $209 per night). This beautifully restored 19th-century brick warehouse, once a keg storage for the Portsmouth Brewing Company, offers a unique lodging experience. Guests are welcomed with complimentary beers from local Smuttynose brewery and personalized recommendations for exploring Portsmouth’s vibrant beer scene, including nearby favorites like Earth Eagle, Liar’s Bench, and Great Rhythm.
603-431-7760, alehouseinn.com
What to Do
Immerse yourself in Portsmouth’s cultural scene at 3S Artspace. This dynamic venue combines a live performance space, a contemporary art gallery, and a restaurant focused on local flavors, playing a significant role in Portsmouth’s artistic revitalization. Check their schedule for concerts, engaging art events, and seasonal exhibitions showcasing diverse art forms, from bold watercolors to innovative wood-fired ceramics.
603-766-3330, 3arts.org
