Good Mexican Food in Los Angeles: The Quest for the Perfect Tortilla

Los Angeles boasts a diverse and celebrated Mexican food scene. But behind the accolades lies a hidden truth: the widespread use of pre-packaged tortillas often laden with preservatives and lacking authentic flavor. This article delves into the importance of fresh, high-quality tortillas in achieving truly Good Mexican Food In Los Angeles and explores the efforts of chefs who are championing a tortilla revolution.

Fresh masa being prepared at a local tortilleria. Photo by Javier Cabral

The stark contrast between traditional Mexican tortillas and their mass-produced American counterparts is often overlooked. While a good tortilla should consist of only corn, water, and lime, many commercially available options contain additives that compromise taste and texture. This difference is particularly noticeable to those accustomed to the fresh, flavorful tortillas common in Mexico.

Maiz undergoing nixtamalization, a crucial step in traditional tortilla making. Photo by Javier Cabral

The rise of pre-packaged tortillas in the US can be attributed to convenience and cost. As Mexican food gained popularity in the 1960s and 70s, brands like Mission and Guerrero capitalized on the demand, offering readily available but often subpar tortillas. This shift prioritized accessibility over quality, impacting the overall experience of enjoying good Mexican food in Los Angeles.

The Tortilla Revolution: A Return to Authenticity

Fortunately, a growing movement is challenging the status quo. Chefs like Carlos Salgado of Taco Maria in Orange County are leading the charge, recognizing the crucial role of tortillas in elevating Mexican cuisine. Salgado’s commitment to using heirloom corn varieties and milling his own masa showcases a dedication to authentic flavors and textures.

Chef Carlos Salgado, a champion of high-quality tortillas. Photo by Anne Watson Photography

Salgado sources his corn from Masienda, a company specializing in heirloom maize, and produces tortillas with a superior taste and aroma. While these tortillas come at a higher price, they represent a significant investment in quality and a rejection of the “cheap” Mexican food mentality. Salgado’s dedication extends beyond his own restaurant; he also supplies his masa to other establishments in Los Angeles, contributing to a growing appreciation for truly good Mexican food.

“Conico” blue corn tortillas from Taco Maria exemplify the beauty and flavor of heirloom varieties. Photo by Anne Watson Photography

A Flavorful Future for Good Mexican Food in Los Angeles

The efforts of chefs like Salgado and the growing awareness among consumers suggest a promising future for good Mexican food in Los Angeles. By prioritizing fresh, high-quality tortillas, diners can experience the true essence of Mexican cuisine. While the widespread adoption of heirloom varieties may take time, the movement towards authenticity is gaining momentum, promising a more flavorful and satisfying experience for all.

A delicious taco showcasing the potential of Salgado’s tortillas. Photo by Anne Watson Photography

The quest for good Mexican food in Los Angeles ultimately hinges on the foundation of any great taco or burrito: the tortilla. By embracing tradition and demanding quality, diners can contribute to a culinary landscape that celebrates authentic flavors and honors the rich heritage of Mexican cuisine. The tortilla revolution is underway, promising a brighter future for Mexican food enthusiasts in Los Angeles and beyond.

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