Cycling in cities can be a mixed bag, often more of a challenge than a joy, unless you find yourself in famously bike-friendly places like Copenhagen or Amsterdam. Mexico City, a sprawling metropolis, was no exception. We debated whether to skip the urban cycling and start our journey from the countryside, but a part of us, perhaps the slightly masochistic adventurer, wanted to experience navigating one of the world’s largest and most polluted cities by bike. Our goal: to cycle from Mexico City To Oaxaca, experiencing the diverse landscapes and cultural gems of Mexico along the way.
Our day began around 10 am from our comfortable Airbnb. The first kilometer was a delightful surprise – a dedicated cycle path! “This is pretty cool!” I exclaimed to Knut, only to be abruptly ejected onto a busy three-lane road just 100 meters later. However, our mid-morning start was a strategic choice that paid off; the traffic wasn’t as congested as it could have been, and drivers generally gave us a reasonable amount of space. Still, navigating a city of 21 million people is no simple task. I relied on Google Maps on my phone, mounted in my handlebar bag, with directions blaring. Following the instructions proved challenging amidst the urban chaos, and then, in true Murphy’s Law fashion, my phone overheated and died. Navigation became, shall we say, significantly more complicated. In fact, bordering on impossible.
Yet, against the odds, we emerged from the city relatively unscathed, only to be greeted by a mini-tornado that nearly swept us off our bikes!
Our initial plan was to reach Amecameca, a small town further along our route. However, the combined effects of our first day back on the bikes after a two-week break and the stress of escaping Mexico City took their toll. About 12 kilometers short of Amecameca, my legs simply gave out.
“I can’t go any further,” I declared to Konstantin, desperation creeping into my voice.
“Urm…” he responded, looking rather helpless.
I managed to revive my slightly cooler phone and frantically searched for nearby hotels. Success! There was one about 2 kilometers away. It was a beacon of hope. We dragged ourselves to the hotel, checked in, and collapsed onto the bed, utterly exhausted. Miles from anywhere, and with no restaurants in sight, the thought of cycling back into town for dinner (especially with a 2km uphill return) was unbearable. Microwave pizzas and a slightly soggy baguette became our gourmet dinner. Such is the glamorous life of a cycling tourist!
Pizza and Mexican TV.
Alt text: Cyclists enjoying microwave pizza and Mexican television in a hotel room after a long day of cycling from Mexico City.
If day one felt tough, we were in for a rude awakening. Day two was all about conquering the Paso de Cortes, a formidable 1300m climb reaching an altitude of 3700m. It was, without a doubt, one of the most challenging cycling ascents I’ve ever faced (at least until South America, but that’s another story!). Altitude and I are not friends. Above 2500m, I start feeling lightheaded and get those familiar headache pangs. Adding another 1000m to that equation resulted in a decidedly unwell Janneke. I tried to settle into my usual climbing rhythm: granny gear, head down, and just keep pedaling upwards. But it was brutal. I aimed for 1km stretches without stopping, but often had to pull over after only 400m, gasping for air and trying to slow my racing heart. I began breaking it down into 500m “sprints” (though at a pace of 2-3km an hour, “sprint” is a generous term), and slowly, agonizingly slowly, we reached the summit.
Before the pass we passed lots of farms
Alt text: Cycling through farmland at the base of Paso de Cortes before the challenging mountain pass climb.
One of many rest stops on our way up the Paso de Cortes
Alt text: Cyclists taking a much-needed rest stop during the arduous ascent of Paso de Cortes, Mexico.
And let me tell you, the view from the top was absolutely worth every ounce of effort. It was one of the most breathtaking panoramas we experienced in all of Mexico – the majestic volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl stood in unbelievable splendor. We set up camp just as an intense thunderstorm rolled in, painting the silhouettes of the imposing volcanoes with flashes of lightning. It was a truly special, albeit freezing, night.
Cycling past Popocatepetl
Alt text: Bike tour adventure with stunning views of Popocatepetl volcano in Mexico.
And cycling towards Iztaccihuatl
Alt text: Cyclists on the road towards Iztaccihuatl volcano during their Mexico City to Oaxaca cycling trip.
Morning sun on Popo
Alt text: Sunrise view of Popocatepetl volcano, nicknamed “Popo”, from a campsite on Paso de Cortes.
Camping in the shadow of the volcano
Alt text: Campsite nestled in the high altitudes of Paso de Cortes, with a volcano looming in the background.
We considered spending another day soaking in the volcanic views, but my altitude headache worsened overnight. Another night of restless sleep was not appealing, so we began our descent down the 1300m pass. Downhill must be fun, right? Wrong. For reasons known only to Mexican road planners, only one side of Paso de Cortes was paved. The downhill was a jarring, rocky, and sometimes sandy track zigzagging down the mountain. I’m not the most confident downhill cyclist at the best of times, and when your wheels occasionally lose traction while gravity is working against you, it becomes a rather stressful experience. I may have had a minor tantrum or two.
We eventually made it down to the charming town of Cholula, just outside of Puebla. Cholula is home to the Great Pyramid of Cholula, the largest pyramid in the world by volume. Intriguingly, it’s largely unexcavated, crowned by a beautiful cathedral built by the Spanish. We spent half a day exploring Cholula before heading to Puebla itself, another city well worth a visit.
The church in Cholula
Alt text: The iconic church atop the Great Pyramid of Cholula, a highlight for tourists cycling from Mexico City.
View over the stormy volcanoes from the church
Alt text: Panoramic view of the stormy volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl from the church in Cholula.
The amazing library in Puebla (one of the oldest in the Americas)
Alt text: The stunning Palafoxiana Library in Puebla, one of the oldest libraries in the Americas, a must-see cultural stop.
Some of the amazing graffiti in Xanenetla
Alt text: Vibrant street art and graffiti in the Xanenetla neighborhood of Puebla, Mexico.
And some more!
Alt text: Colorful and expressive graffiti art adorning walls in Puebla, showcasing the city’s artistic vibe.
The following days were less remarkable. In fact, dare I say, a bit dull. The region between Mexico City and Puebla and beyond is heavily developed. We were used to the Baja Peninsula where you might cycle 150km without seeing a town, but here it was a seemingly endless urban sprawl. Wild camping was quickly ruled out without significant effort. The roads were also considerably busier – speeding cars, buses pulling out without checking for cyclists, and an abundance of speed bumps. We met lovely people in the small towns we passed through, but I felt my cycling enthusiasm waning. This was not ideal so early into our trip from Mexico City to Oaxaca.
Very friendly restaurant owner who was super excited about the fact we were on bikes and that now his restaurant had international visitors!
Alt text: Friendly Mexican restaurant owner excited to host international cyclists traveling from Mexico City to Oaxaca.
Our friendly neighbourhood policeman
Alt text: A friendly local policeman encountered by cyclists on their journey through Mexico.
Enjoying a marching band in our lunch break
Alt text: Cyclists enjoying an impromptu marching band performance during their lunch break in a Mexican town.
Then we arrived in San Gabriel Chilac. A small village almost invisible on the map, but one of the most charming we encountered in Mexico. They had gone all out with decorations for Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) celebrations, and the town was a riot of color with flags everywhere.
Colourful flags in San Gabriel
Alt text: Vibrant and colorful flags decorating San Gabriel Chilac for Semana Santa, creating a festive atmosphere.
Beautiful town of San Gabriel
Alt text: Picturesque and beautiful small town of San Gabriel Chilac, a hidden gem on the Mexico City to Oaxaca route.
Seeking dinner in the early evening proved challenging. Almost nothing was open. We eventually found a place where we couldn’t quite determine if they were opening or closing.
“Are you open?” we asked in Spanish.
“Yes.”
“Food?”
“Yes.”
As is common in small, family-run eateries, there was no menu. Sometimes they just have one dish cooking, and you get what you get. Here, they had a selection (verbally listed), but our Spanish skills were clearly causing confusion. They called a friend who spoke English, and he translated for us. It was incredibly kind. Even with a language barrier, smiles and gestures can go a long way.
The restaurant
Alt text: A simple, family-run restaurant in San Gabriel Chilac, offering authentic Mexican food to hungry cyclists.
Tucking into some tacos!
Alt text: Enjoying delicious and authentic tacos at a local restaurant in San Gabriel Chilac, Mexico.
From feeling uninspired the day before, these small, heartwarming experiences reminded me why we were on this journey and why cycling is so amazing. We likely wouldn’t have discovered this charming town in a car, and even if we had, we probably would have cooked our own food, missing this authentic local interaction.
Despite these lovely moments, we still had some mojo-crushing cycling ahead – venturing onto the federal highway from San Gabriel Chilac. These highways are actually quite impressive – almost brand new with wide shoulders that serve as decent cycle paths. But they were intensely HOT. Unbearably hot. Google Maps suggested a restaurant around kilometer 50. As we sweated up yet another incline, I clung to the mental image of a refreshing, ice-cold Sprite. The speedometer ticked to 49km. Just around the corner. 50km. Hmmm. Maybe the next kilometer. 51. Hmmm. Where is it? My mouth was watering in anticipation. 52, 53, 54. It didn’t exist. Another tantrum was brewing…
We collapsed under a tree.
“This is just awful,” I sighed to Konstantin.
He grunted in reply.
I don’t cope well with heat. Konstantin, however, transforms into a caveman. Grunts and silence are his primary communication methods when overheating, which, with average daily temperatures around 35 degrees Celsius, meant our conversations were rather limited.
I lay down in the shade.
“I’m not moving,” I declared.
“Grunt,” Konstantin agreed.
Our lunchtime collapse spot
Alt text: Cyclists taking a midday siesta under a tree to escape the intense heat on the highway between Mexico City and Oaxaca.
We actually dozed off (a proper siesta, if you will) for two hours, occasionally startled awake by the loud engine brakes of passing trucks. By the time we woke up at 2 pm, the temperature hadn’t really dropped, but we felt slightly more human and able to continue. The next day, we abandoned any pretense of cycling heroism and checked into a spa. Living the high life, indeed!
Chilling by the pool!
Alt text: Relaxing and cooling off by the pool at a spa during a cycling trip from Mexico City to Oaxaca.
At this point, we only had two days left to reach Oaxaca City. We opted for the less scenic but easier route – more federal highway. These highways are efficient for covering distance, but they lack the charm of smaller roads. I love when the cycle ride itself is part of the experience – when spending five hours cycling is a joy because you’re immersed in the environment. Five hours on a federal highway is simply about getting from point A to point B. It’s exercise, which is great, but it’s not an immersive travel experience.
Big hard shoulders, but no protection from the sun
Alt text: Wide highway shoulders providing space for cyclists, but offering no shade from the scorching Mexican sun.
No cyclists allowed…ah well!
Alt text: Humorous sign indicating “No Cyclists Allowed” on a Mexican highway, which cyclists are playfully ignoring.
We broke up our two days of highway cycling in the town of Asuncion Nochixtlan. It’s never a good sign when the police station in a town is abandoned with a burnt-out car in front. But we didn’t think much of it. Later, chatting with our hotel owners, they mentioned major Easter celebrations were planned and suggested we stay longer. Intrigued, we Googled the town. It turned out that the previous night there had been significant protests and two people had been shot. The town had also been the site of riots in 2016 with multiple fatalities, and the burnt-out cars were remnants of those protests. The day before our arrival, police had tried to remove the cars, triggering a violent demonstration. Needless to say, we decided against extending our stay for Easter celebrations. As we cycled out of town, signs of the recent unrest were everywhere.
Burnt out bus on our way out of the city
Alt text: A burnt-out bus on the roadside, a stark reminder of recent protests in Asuncion Nochixtlan.
From the protests in 2016
Alt text: Remnants of past protests, including damaged vehicles, seen in Asuncion Nochixtlan, Mexico.
The remains of the protests were quite obvious
Alt text: Visible signs of protests and unrest throughout the town of Asuncion Nochixtlan encountered by cyclists.
Finally, we arrived in Oaxaca City. Generally, we praise Mexican drivers for their consideration and for giving cyclists space. Oaxaca City was an exception. Cycling in the bus lane (yes, only for buses) we encountered taxi drivers cutting us off, honking aggressively, and trying to squeeze past when there was clearly no room. Usually, I can take this in stride, but when drivers are breaking the rules and acting entitled, it’s incredibly frustrating! We later learned that Oaxaca has no driving test – you simply visit the licensing office, show ID, and receive a license. The driving standards certainly reflected this.
We made Oaxaca City our base for three weeks, enjoying the Easter celebrations during our first weekend and exploring this beautiful city.
Guess where?!
Alt text: A vibrant street scene in Oaxaca City, inviting exploration and cultural immersion.
Awesome street performance in Oaxaca
Alt text: Engaging street performers adding to the lively atmosphere of Oaxaca City, Mexico.
Those Catholics don
Alt text: Elaborate and grand Catholic church decorations in Oaxaca City during Easter celebrations.
One of the many cathedrals in Oaxaca
Alt text: Impressive architecture of one of the many cathedrals in Oaxaca City, showcasing its rich history.
Street art in Oaxaca
Alt text: Colorful and expressive street art in Oaxaca City, reflecting the city’s artistic soul.
Our local organic market where we spent many an afternoon!
Alt text: A bustling local organic market in Oaxaca City, a favorite spot for fresh produce and local flavors.
We watched the Good Friday procession through the streets of Oaxaca
Alt text: Solemn Good Friday procession winding through the historic streets of Oaxaca City.
We then spent two weeks at the excellent Posada del Sol language school, improving our “Spanglish” with our fantastic teacher Esteban, and generally taking time to relax – updating our blog, catching up with family, and yes, binge-watching three seasons of Vikings!
Our host family in Oaxaca!
Alt text: Smiling host family in Oaxaca City, providing a welcoming and cultural immersion experience.
Oaxaca City’s beauty and wonderful vibe (difficult to capture in photos) made it a joy to simply wander, savor incredible food, enjoy street performances, and immerse ourselves in the culture. We visited the remarkable Monte Alban and took an excellent tour of the Botanical Gardens.
Oaxaca is famous for its foods, and there was some interesting stuff for sale in the markets!
Alt text: Exotic and interesting food items for sale in a market in Oaxaca, known for its culinary traditions.
Visiting the awesome Monte Alban
Alt text: Exploring the ancient ruins of Monte Alban near Oaxaca City, a significant archaeological site.
More from the gardens
Alt text: Diverse flora and fauna in the Oaxaca Botanical Gardens, showcasing Mexico’s natural beauty.
Cactuses in the botanical gardens
Alt text: Collection of cacti in the Oaxaca Botanical Garden, highlighting the region’s unique plant life.
Some agave (and other plants) in the botanical gardens
Alt text: Agave plants and other native species in the Oaxaca Botanical Garden, promoting biodiversity and conservation.
Eventually, though, it was time to move on and head to the coast! Read all about it in our next blog post: Cycling Southern Mexico.
For those planning a similar adventure, we have a separate blog post with more detailed logistics and route planning information available here.
