Colima, Mexico, may not be the first place that springs to mind when you think of world-class sea salt, but this Pacific coast state harbors a treasure trove of flavor and tradition. Unlike the salt pans of Trapani that rely on windmills and evaporation pools above ground, Colima, Mexico, boasts a distinctive method of salt production. Here, saltwater is drawn from underground pools near coastal lagoons, resulting in a salt celebrated for its rich mineral content and minimal microplastic contamination. This unique approach yields a sea salt that is not only essential to the local cuisine but also increasingly recognized for its exceptional quality.
My exploration of Colima, Mexico, and its famed salt began with a fortunate connection to Chef Nico Mejía. A passionate advocate for his home state, Chef Nico has authored four books dedicated to the diverse landscapes and culinary heritage of Colima, including its mountains, volcanoes, and, of course, its salt. Before my visit, Chef Nico advised that April, after the spring rains, would be the perfect time to witness the salt harvest. This narrow window of opportunity, just two to three months, is crucial as rainwater can flood the salt pools, interrupting the delicate process.
Eager to delve into the culinary heart of Colima, my photographer Valerie and I met Chef Nico at his restaurant, Les Sal – a name that subtly hints at the region’s prized product. Located just off the main road and adjacent to his childhood home, Les Sal exudes a welcoming, tropical ambiance. Shaded by lush plants and trees, the outdoor patio provides a relaxed setting, while the bar’s wall, adorned with 1,500 coconut shells, adds a touch of local artistry.
The restaurant buzzed with the happy chatter of families and couples enjoying margaritas and sharing plates of vibrant salsa. Chef Nico, a gracious host, insisted on curating our meal. We were treated to a parade of dishes, from refreshing ceviche to savory tacos and crispy tostadas, each showcasing the fresh, local ingredients of Colima, Mexico. The ceviche in Colima stood out with its unique preparation. Unlike the typically juicy ceviches found elsewhere in Latin America, Colima’s version features finely minced fish combined with carrots, chiles, and onions, lightly marinated in lime juice. This “drier” style of ceviche proved to be an exquisite topping for a crunchy tostada.
The following morning, Chef Nico guided us through the bustling Manzanilla city market, a sensory feast of local produce and culinary delights. We savored handmade corn tortillas, flavorful tacos, and a regional specialty, posole blanco. This unique version of posole features dried corn cooked in a clear broth with chicken or pork, notably absent of chile sauce. Served “dry” with shredded meat and cabbage, posole blanco allowed the natural sweetness of the corn to shine through, a welcome contrast to the often overpowering heat of chile-laden dishes. Wandering through the market’s vibrant stalls, we were surrounded by an abundance of tropical fruits, glistening fresh fish, and mounds of leafy greens, all nurtured by the volcanic soil of Colima, Mexico.
While Chef Nico had to return to Les Sal for the lunch rush, we eagerly anticipated our sunset meeting to finally witness the famed salt farms of Colima, Mexico, and uncover more secrets of this exceptional ingredient at its source. The journey to understand the unique salt of Colima was just beginning, promising a deeper appreciation for this essential element of Mexican cuisine and the rich cultural landscape of Colima, Mexico.
