Around the globe, Michelin stars often conjure images of upscale dining establishments, characterized by their formal ambiance and meticulous service. However, in a surprising and delightful turn, the prestigious French guide has bestowed one of its coveted stars upon a far more accessible culinary experience: a humble taco stand.
El Califa de León has made history as the world’s first taqueria to earn a Michelin star, an honor announced during the guide’s inaugural Mexico rankings just recently. Since this landmark recognition, the taqueria has been experiencing an unprecedented surge in popularity, with eager diners now waiting in lines that stretch for hours, as reported by the Los Angeles Times.
“There hasn’t been a moment of peace since the star!” exclaimed Isabel Carolina González, a long-time employee at El Califa de León with over two decades of experience, in an interview with the Times.
Established in 1956, El Califa de León has long been a beloved fixture in the working-class San Rafael neighborhood of Mexico City. The taqueria’s simple menu features four types of tacos – costilla (rib), bistek (beef steak), chuleta (pork chop), and the acclaimed gaonera (beef cheek) – each served on freshly handmade corn tortillas. In a departure from the elaborate toppings common in the United States, El Califa de León focuses on the quality of its core ingredients. A single taco ranges from a modest $3.50 to $5. Beverage options are limited to sodas, forgoing wine, beer, or liquor. With no seating available, patrons enjoy their Michelin star tacos standing at counters, served on unpretentious plastic plates.
This groundbreaking Michelin star for a taco stand is not entirely without precedent. Michelin has previously recognized street food venues, notably awarding a star to a hawker stall in Singapore, which was once celebrated as the cheapest Michelin-starred meal. (However, that particular stall unfortunately lost its star in 2021.) Similarly, a shophouse eatery in Bangkok earned Michelin recognition. Interestingly, the chef in Bangkok expressed mixed feelings about the award, feeling overwhelmed by the sudden influx of customers and even wishing she could relinquish the accolade.
While El Califa de León is also navigating the challenges of increased crowds, reports suggest that the majority of its current clientele are Mexico City locals. However, this is anticipated to change as news of the Michelin star spreads internationally, inspiring culinary tourists to include the taqueria in their travel plans. The owner has even hinted at potential future expansion with the opening of additional locations.
For now, El Califa de León appears to be embracing its newfound global recognition, viewing it as a victory not only for the taqueria itself but also for Mexican cuisine as a whole.
“This is an award for Mexico,” chef Arturo Rivera Martínez proudly told the Times. “There are many fine restaurants in Mexico. But for a taqueria to win this star—that is something special.”
