Unpacking the Refreshment: Exploring the Nuances of Mexican Lager

Mexican Lager has surged in popularity within the craft beer scene in recent years, evolving from a regional curiosity to a widely appreciated style. Initially observed in San Diego brewpubs as a craft interpretation of a familiar beach beer, it quickly gained traction, with commercial versions like Ska’s Mexican Logger and 21st Amendment’s El Sully leading the way. This rise in prominence makes Mexican Lager an interesting lens through which to examine several key aspects of brewing and beer culture.

Firstly, Mexican Lager exemplifies how brewers can find inspiration in seemingly ordinary styles. In an era often dominated by the pursuit of the next trendy IPA, brewers are demonstrating creativity by taking a humble style and refining it. Consider the Mexican lager, sometimes simply perceived as a beer to accompany lime or nachos. By applying meticulous brewing techniques and selecting quality ingredients, brewers are able to elevate this style, enhancing its character without sacrificing its inherent drinkability. We will delve deeper into this later.

Secondly, the perception and treatment of certain beer styles within beer culture are brought into focus. An anecdote from a visit to The Lost Abbey brewery in San Diego during the National Homebrewers Conference illustrates this point. Upon ordering their Amigo Mexican Lager, the author was met with beer snobbery, being told he should be drinking an IPA instead. This experience highlights a broader issue within beer culture, where certain styles, often those perceived as less complex or mainstream, are sometimes unfairly dismissed. Craft beer should be inclusive and celebrate the diversity of styles.

Thirdly, the evolution of style guidelines, specifically the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) guidelines, is relevant to understanding Mexican Lager. The 2008 BJCP guidelines grouped Premium American Lager and mass-market international styles together under Premium American Lager. However, the 2015 revision recognized the divergence of these styles, separating them and creating the International Pale Lager category (2A), while merging Premium and Standard American Lager into American Lager (1B). International Pale Lagers are defined by a more pronounced bitterness and flavor profile.

Mexican Lager can be positioned within these 2015 categories, often leaning towards the International Pale Lager style, particularly craft interpretations with a slightly higher bitterness, alcohol, and flavor intensity. It is important to note that Mexican Lager is a subset of International Pale Lager, not all International Pale Lagers are Mexican Lagers. For beer competitions, specifying “craft-type Mexican lager” in the comments can provide helpful context for judges.

The Historical Roots of Mexican Lager

To truly appreciate Mexican Lager, it’s essential to understand its historical context, which is closely linked to Vienna Lager. Austrian immigrants played a pivotal role in establishing the Mexican brewing industry, bringing with them brewing traditions and techniques that led to the development of excellent amber lagers. While the detailed history involving figures like Anton Dreher, Napoleon III, and the influence of European traditions in Mexico is a rich narrative in itself, it shares similarities with the development of Pilsner-style beers in the United States during the late 19th century.

Much like early American breweries, Mexican brewers adopted the use of adjuncts, primarily corn, for economic reasons. Corn became a staple ingredient in Mexican brewing, while barley, although cultivated in Mexico, is now largely sourced from the United States and Canada, especially in the post-NAFTA era.

The evolution of Mexican Lager towards its modern pale form mirrors the broader trend of industrial brewing, where beers became lighter in color and flavor to appeal to a wider consumer base. Modern Mexican Lagers trace their origins to the 1920s, reflecting a global story of brewing consolidation and dominance by international conglomerates who control marketing and distribution. Notably, Mexico did not experience prohibition, resulting in an earlier consolidation of its brewing industry compared to the United States. Currently, the Mexican brewing landscape is dominated by two major conglomerates.

Despite this industrial dominance, a vibrant craft beer movement is emerging in Mexico, mirroring global trends. However, the Mexican Lager style discussed here is primarily focused on the United States craft interpretation, which often looks back to the style’s European brewing heritage.

Sensory Profile: Decoding the Taste of Mexican Lager

The BJCP style guidelines for International Pale Lager offer a broad framework, encompassing premium mass-market lagers globally. Craft Mexican Lager comfortably fits within this description but possesses more specific characteristics. Notably, it almost invariably includes corn in the grist and typically utilizes a neutral yeast strain.

International Pale Lagers are characterized by their pale straw to gold color, high carbonation, and clarity. The head is typically white, though head retention may not be exceptional. Mexican Lagers often exhibit a slightly deeper gold hue.

Aroma-wise, International Pale Lagers present a light malty impression, described as grainy or neutral, with low to medium-low intensity. Mexican Lager distinguishes itself with a subtle corny sweetness in the aroma, a characteristic that may be present in some International Pale Lagers but usually at a lower level. Hop aroma in International Pale Lagers is light, often featuring noble-type hops with floral or spicy notes, a trait shared by Mexican Lager, reflecting its European brewing roots. While International Pale Lagers can have diverse yeast profiles with subtle fermentation byproducts, Mexican Lagers are typically cleaner in fermentation character.

On the palate, International Pale Lagers are crisp, dry, and well-attenuated. The malt flavor echoes the aroma, ranging from neutral and grainy to lightly malty-sweet or crackery. Mexican Lager shares this foundation but introduces a distinctive corny sweetness and flavor. It’s important to clarify the interplay of sweetness and dryness: these beers offer a perceived sweetness on the palate yet finish dry. Bitterness is generally medium-low to medium, with a balance that ranges from malty to even, although some European examples lean slightly bitter. Mexican Lagers typically exhibit a balanced to lightly malty profile. Hop flavors are low to moderate, presenting spicy, floral, or herbal nuances.

Fermentation flavors in International Pale Lagers can vary, from neutral profiles to slight apple-like fruitiness. Mexican Lagers, however, are known for their clean fermentation. As lagers, both styles should be smooth on the palate. The dryness and high carbonation can contribute a slight bite in the finish, but Mexican Lagers tend to have a more restrained bite. The aftertaste is typically clean, with lingering malt flavor and sometimes a subtle hop note.

While International Pale Lager ABV can reach 6%, most hover around 5%. Mexican Lager is optimally enjoyed in the 4.5% to 5.5% ABV range, with a preference for the lower end, especially for summertime consumption.

Brewing Ingredients and Methods: Crafting Mexican Lager

The grain bill for Mexican Lager primarily consists of lightly-kilned base malts, incorporating 10 to 40% corn. Base malts can include a blend of 2-row, 6-row, Pilsner malt, and Vienna malt. Malt quality significantly impacts flavor, with continental malts often favored in premium versions. German malts are a preferred choice for this style, although North American 2-row malt can be suitable when using a lower percentage of corn. 6-row malt is generally unnecessary unless using a very high proportion of corn and concerned about starch conversion.

The percentage of corn directly influences flavor and overall quality. Higher percentages lead to a more pronounced corn flavor and a less prominent malt character. Corn can be used in various forms, but flaked maize is a convenient option for brewers as it can be mashed with barley malt. Freshness is crucial when using flaked maize, as older maize can develop undesirable oxidized, fatty flavors. A middle ground of around 20-25% corn in the grist often strikes a good balance.

Extract brewers face limitations with flaked maize as it requires mashing. Steeping maize before adding malt extract may impart corn flavor but can result in starch haze. Brewers Corn Syrup, distinct from grocery store corn syrups like Karo, can be used as an alternative extract ingredient (avoid grocery store syrups due to high-fructose corn syrup and added flavorings). A pale malt extract derived from Pilsner-type malts is suitable for the remaining fermentables.

Mashing techniques for Mexican Lager prioritize attenuation. A single infusion mash at 149–151 °F (65–66 °C) is effective. A German-style step mash, incorporating rests at 131 °F (35 °C), 145 °F (63 °C), and 158 °F (70 °C), also works well. Decoction mashing is generally unnecessary as intense malt flavor development and color are not desired for this style.

Hop selection favors German or Czech hops traditionally associated with European lagers. However, heavy hopping is not characteristic. A noticeable hop aroma and flavor, in the range of 18 to 25 IBUs, is desirable. Suitable hop varieties include Tettnanger, Hallertauer, and Saaz, as well as US-grown alternatives like Sterling, Santiam, Vanguard, Liberty, or Crystal. Freshness should be the primary factor in hop selection, regardless of origin. Dry hopping is not typical, but if used, should be restrained (half an ounce or less).

White Labs WLP940 Mexican Lager yeast is a specialized yeast strain well-suited to this style, imparting a distinctive flavor. However, its limited availability may necessitate using a neutral lager strain. Avoid yeasts that produce excessive sulfur, apple-like byproducts, or lack cleanliness. Cool fermentation and sufficient lagering are crucial for a smooth beer and to reduce any green flavors, following traditional lager fermentation and conditioning practices.

Water profile should be relatively neutral to avoid mineral flavors in the finished beer. Calcium sulfate (gypsum) is generally avoided as it can clash with noble hops and introduce sulfurous notes. Calcium chloride can enhance malt character and create a softer finish.

Homebrew Example: Crafting Your Own Mexican Lager

This homebrew recipe aims for a balanced Mexican Lager, using a mid-range corn percentage (25%) and a blend of Pilsner, US 2-row, and Vienna malts. Vienna malt is included to maintain historical ties to the original Mexican lagers and contribute a touch of color. Pilsner malt forms the bulk of the grist, with US 2-row malt used to slightly dilute the flavor, aiming for a balance that allows corn character to come through without being overly malty.

The target is a 5% ABV beer with around 20 IBUs, resulting in an easy-drinking, refreshing beer. Tettnanger hops are chosen for their spicy character, although Hallertauer or other noble-type hops would also be appropriate. First-wort hopping is used for flavor, with a light finishing hop addition for aroma. Bittering additions are balanced to achieve approximately 20 IBUs.

Mashing at 149 °F (65 °C) promotes attenuation without making the beer excessively dry, aiming for some body without using crystal malts or other adjuncts like Carapils®. Water salt treatment is kept light, using calcium chloride for a softer finish. Gypsum is avoided to prevent accentuating sulfur flavors.

Yeast, along with corn, is a key component. White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager) is the preferred strain for its unique flavor profile associated with commercial Mexican beers. If unavailable, clean German lager yeasts like Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager), WLP830 (German Lager), Lallemand Diamond Lager, or Fermentis SafLager W-34/70 dry lager yeast are suitable alternatives. Fermentation follows a standard lager regime: 50 °F (10 °C) for primary fermentation and lagering near freezing (32 °F/0 °C).

For competition entries, the BJCP 2A International Pale Lager category is recommended, specifying “craft Mexican lager” for clarity.

Mexican Lager BY THE NUMBERS

OG: 1.042–1.050
FG: 1.008–1.012
SRM: 2-6
IBU: 18-25
ABV: 4.6–6.0%

MEXICAN LAGER (All-Grain Recipe)

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) OG = 1.049 FG = 1.011 IBU = 19 SRM = 3.5 ABV = 5%

INGREDIENTS

3 lbs. 8 oz. (1.6 kg) German Pilsner malt
2 lbs. (907 kg) US 2-row malt
2 lbs. (907 kg) German Vienna malt
2 lbs. 12 oz. (1.25 kg) flaked maize
1.5 AAU Tettnanger hops (first wort hop) (0.33 oz./9 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
3 AAU Tettnanger hops (45 min.) (0.76 oz./19g at 4.5% alpha acids)
0.5 oz (14 g) Tettnanger hops (5 min.)
White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager) or Lallemand Diamond Lager yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming)

STEP BY STEP

Mash: Mash grains and corn at 149 °F (65 °C) in 14 qts. (13 L) water for 60 minutes. Mash out at 168 °F (76 °C).
Sparge: Recirculate for 15 minutes, then fly sparge with 168 °F (76 °C) water to collect 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) wort.
Boil: Boil wort for 75 minutes, adding hops as indicated. Add first wort hops after lautering, before boil.
Cool & Ferment: Chill wort to 50 °F (10 °C), oxygenate, pitch yeast. Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C).
Lager: Rack beer to secondary or remove yeast cake. Lager at 32 °F (0 °C) for 4-8 weeks.
Package: Rack beer, prime and bottle, or keg and force carbonate.

MEXICAN LAGER (Extract Recipe)

(5 gallons/19 L, extract only) OG = 1.049 FG = 1.011 IBU = 19 SRM = 3.5 ABV = 5%