Portland’s vibrant food scene is renowned for its diversity, and when it comes to Mexican cuisine, the city offers a spectrum of flavors that tantalize every palate. Among the standout establishments redefining Mexican Food Portland, De Noche and Bar Comala emerge as true gems. Nestled in the Pearl District, this conjoined bar and restaurant present a unique and sophisticated approach to Mexican gastronomy and spirits, moving beyond the typical and delving into the rich, nuanced world of regional Mexican flavors and independent distillations.
Stepping into Bar Comala is akin to entering a sanctuary dedicated to Mexican spirits. The bar boasts an impressive collection, one of the largest in the United States, featuring over 100 mezcals by the glass and a vast array of tequilas, raicillas, sotols, and other Mexican distillates. What sets Comala apart is its commitment to independent bottlings, consciously avoiding mass-produced corporate brands. This dedication provides patrons with an unparalleled opportunity to explore the artistry and diversity of Mexican micro-distilling culture. For anyone seeking an education in agave spirits, Bar Comala is an essential destination within the Mexican food Portland landscape.
De Noche's tamal with Dungeness crab showcasing innovative Mexican cuisine in Portland.
The spirits menu at Bar Comala is not just a list; it’s an immersive syllabus. Tasting flights offer a comparative journey through mezcal, sotol, and raicilla, highlighting the distinct characteristics imparted by different agave types, terroirs, and distillation methods. Sotol, derived from a succulent plant in northern Mexico, and raicilla, an agave spirit from Jalisco, present fascinating contrasts to mezcal, expanding the drinker’s understanding of Mexican distillation traditions. Experiencing these spirits at Bar Comala provides an access point to flavors often requiring a trip to Mexico itself, making it a unique offering within the Mexican food Portland scene.
As you explore the world of Mexican spirits at Bar Comala, the culinary offerings from the adjoining De Noche beckon. Chef Dani Morales helms the kitchen at De Noche, crafting a menu of modern Mexican dishes that are both comforting and boldly innovative. De Noche and Bar Comala, both opened in 2022 and part of the República & Co. restaurant group, offer complementary experiences. One might begin with the captivating spirits at Comala and then transition to the culinary delights of De Noche, or vice versa. A connecting hallway physically links the two spaces, creating a seamless flow between the bar’s intimate ambiance and the restaurant’s brighter, more open setting.
Bar Comala's botanas chochoyotes, a tasty example of Mexican appetizers in Portland.
Bar Comala’s food menu features botanas, Mexican snacks perfect for pairing with the extensive drinks selection. These aren’t your average bar snacks; think skirt steak tacos bursting with fresh herbs and encased in homemade tortillas, or mole coloradito wings, where ancient flavors meet bar food familiarity. Fried masa puffs with aioli provide textural contrast and palate cleansing bites between sips of agave spirits. These botanas elevate the bar snack experience and represent a thoughtful approach to Mexican food Portland, even in a casual setting.
De Noche’s dining room offers a different atmosphere, brighter and more spacious, with an open kitchen and comfortable seating arrangements. Chef Morales’s culinary vision truly shines here. Her approach to Mexican cuisine is both respectful of tradition and fearlessly inventive. A five-course meal at De Noche is a journey through regional Mexican flavors, presented with a contemporary Portland sensibility. Dishes like aguachile with local salmon and grapefruit, tlayudas with kampachi, and a remarkably complex mole negro with steak showcase her ability to balance classic techniques with unexpected ingredients and flavor combinations.
Chef Dani Morales in De Noche, highlighting culinary expertise in Mexican food in Portland.
One standout dish, the beef short rib birria, is Morales’s mother’s family recipe, a dish traditionally reserved for special occasions. This birria, incredibly tender and flavorful, paired with a fragrant raicilla, embodies the “Jalisco meets Jalisco” concept, highlighting the harmonious pairing of food and spirit from the same Mexican state. This personal touch, rooted in family tradition, is interwoven with Morales’s broader culinary philosophy, which embraces innovation and seasonality.
Morales challenges the notion of rigid “authenticity” in Mexican cuisine. Her moles, for example, incorporate ingredients like black garlic, soy sauce, and ginger, demonstrating a willingness to draw inspiration from global flavors while maintaining the conceptual foundation of mole. The moles at De Noche change weekly, reflecting seasonal ingredients and Morales’s creative explorations. From a green mole with scallops reminiscent of curry to a white mole with salmon inspired by Pacific Northwest tribal cuisine, these dishes are “nontraditional” yet deeply rooted in culinary understanding. This innovative approach sets De Noche apart in the Mexican food Portland dining scene.
Bar Comala's dimly lit interior creating an inviting atmosphere for enjoying Mexican spirits in Portland.
The combined experience of De Noche and Bar Comala transcends a typical restaurant visit. It’s a journey into the heart of Mexican culture, expressed through exceptional food, drink, art, and hospitality. The flickering black and white Mexican films projected in Bar Comala, the extensive collection of spirits, and the thoughtfully crafted dishes all contribute to an immersive and impressive experience. For those seeking a deeper understanding and appreciation of Mexican food Portland offers, De Noche and Bar Comala are essential destinations.
Morales's plato de birria, a traditional Mexican dish served in Portland with family heritage.
The level of care and attention to detail at De Noche and Bar Comala is truly remarkable, setting them apart within Portland’s competitive restaurant landscape. A visit here is an invitation to engage with Mexican cuisine and spirits on a deeper level, requiring an open mind and a willingness to explore beyond the familiar. It’s about experiencing moles unlike any other, tasting spirits rarely found outside of Mexico, and immersing oneself in a cultural experience that is both authentic and innovative. De Noche and Bar Comala offer more than just a meal; they provide a comprehensive and enriching exploration of Mexican food Portland at its finest.
Mole poblano with New York steak showcasing innovative Mexican cuisine in Portland.
DE NOCHE and BAR COMALA | Pearl District, 422 NW Eighth Ave
