Mexico City is a culinary paradise, brimming with cafes that offer a taste of local life. But if you’re searching for a truly authentic experience, look no further than Café de Raíz, a small gem nestled in the Roma neighborhood. This Mexico City Cafe, near Plaza Luis Cabrera, is a haven for traditional Mexican flavors, especially known for its exceptional tamales.
Owned by siblings Pola and Mardonio Carballo, Café de Raíz elevates the humble tamale to an art form. Forget the street versions or standard cafe offerings; here, you’ll find tamales crafted with passion and authentic recipes. The tamal de arroz is a standout, a hearty creation made with real rice grains, unlike the typical rice flour versions. It’s almost a full meal in itself, featuring a generous layer of rice enveloping a flavorful chicken picadillo filling that strikes the perfect balance between sweet and savory.
However, the tamal de frijol might just steal the show. Encased in a fragrant banana leaf, this moist rectangle of masa is infused with an intoxicating herbal aroma. Pola reveals the secret: a blend of masa, black beans, cilantro, oregano, and “un toque de manteca” (a touch of lard). This Mexico City cafe’s bean tamale is a testament to simple ingredients transformed into something extraordinary, arguably one of the best tamales you’ll find anywhere in Mexico.
Beyond their signature tamales, this charming Mexico City cafe offers a rotating selection of four to five varieties daily, with the rice and bean tamales as constants. Complement your tamales with atoles, traditional hot corn-based drinks, in seasonal flavors like guava, pineapple, tamarind, and champurrado. On weekends, pozole, a rich and flavorful stew, is also on the menu. And for those seeking a morning treat, the breakfast menu is equally enticing. The huevos rancheros, served in a rustic style with chunky tomato sauce over crispy corn tortillas, are a must-try.
The Carballos’ heritage as Nahua people from Veracruz deeply influences Café de Raíz. Mardonio, in addition to co-owning the cafe, is a journalist and writer who hosts “De Raíz Luna,” a TV show exploring indigenous themes on Mexico City’s Channel 22. Pola emphasizes that the cafe is a tribute to corn, a staple in Mexican cuisine and culture. This dedication and love for their culinary heritage are palpable in every dish served at this special Mexico City cafe.
Whether you are a tamale enthusiast or simply curious to explore authentic Mexican food in a cozy setting, Café de Raíz is a destination worth seeking out in Mexico City.
Café de Raíz
Merida 132 Bis between Chihuahua and Guanajuato streets, Colonia Roma
Open daily from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Tel. 5584 8847
Find them on Twitter: @cafederaiz