Mexico City, in its Nuevo Polanco neighborhood, reveals the Museo Soumaya, a modern architectural marvel housing Old Masters—a perfect symbol for this enthusiastically anachronistic city.
Museo Soumaya's striking architecture in Nuevo Polanco, Mexico City, housing classic art.
Visiting Mexico City right now is like stepping into a vibrant tapestry where ancient Aztec history intertwines with Spanish colonial grandeur, and Art Deco buildings stand proudly beside contemporary skyscrapers of glass and steel. This energetic metropolis, even with its bustling modern streets, still echoes with the clip-clop of the occasional horse-drawn cart, a testament to its layered past.
My first encounter with Mexico City in the 1980s painted a picture of captivating contrasts and a zest for life. The air was thick with enticing aromas drifting from brightly colored taquerías, their walls bearing the marks of countless meals cooked over open flames. Late-night breakfasts were a tradition at the venerable Café El Popular, where bow-tied waiters provided impeccable service. In century-old cantinas, the city’s elders shared stories of a bygone era, a cultural renaissance that once attracted international luminaries, including my own parents, to what was then hailed as the “Paris of the New World.”
Returning to Mexico City permanently in 1996, I witnessed firsthand its remarkable resurgence. Today, significant investments in public transportation and effective pollution control measures have cleared the air, revealing the majestic mountains that cradle the city. Crime rates have decreased substantially, and historic neighborhoods like art deco Condesa and colonial Coyoacán have been revitalized, showcasing their architectural splendor. World-class entertainment graces the stages of restored theaters, attracting talents like Tony Bennett and Renée Fleming. The cutting edge of installation art thrives in new galleries such as Kurimanzutto, while Mexican artists, from Gabriel Orozco to Javier Marin, have gained international acclaim. Furthermore, a culinary revolution, spearheaded by chefs like Enrique Olvera, has firmly established the city as a premier global food destination.
A collage showcasing Mexico City's culinary and social scenes, including Mercadoroma and El Taco Club.
Yet, the most captivating aspect of Mexico City right now is its people. The chilangos, as the residents are affectionately known, are not only incredibly welcoming and friendly but also possess extraordinary resilience, recently demonstrated after a devastating earthquake in September. In Condesa, where I live, neighbors immediately took to the streets, offering aid to the injured, providing food, and clearing debris. While the scars of the earthquake remain visible, with some buildings awaiting demolition, the city quickly bounced back. Within days, the comforting aroma of hot chocolate and churros once again drew locals to Churrería El Moro, a quintessential chilango treat, and couples strolled hand in hand through the verdant Parque México, reaffirming the city’s enduring spirit.
Savor the Flavors: Where to Eat in Mexico City Now
Mexico City’s food scene, from unassuming street food stalls to sophisticated dining establishments, offers an overwhelming array of culinary delights for every palate. In Condesa, Pasillo de Humo, led by the innovative chef Alam Méndez, presents Oaxacan cuisine with a modern twist. Be sure to sample his exquisite red, green, and yellow moles, perfectly paired with handmade tortillas. Raíz in Polanco, under the guidance of French-trained chef Israel Montero, crafts original Mexican-inspired dishes using locally sourced ingredients. For a trendy and vibrant atmosphere, visit Loretta Chic Bistrot in San Ángel. Chef Abel Hernández’s delectable Franco-Mexican fare has garnered local Gourmet Award recognition. Among the city’s popular food halls, Mercadoroma Coyoacán: stands out with its diverse selection of 40 vendors offering both Mexican and international foods, from Ochentaocho’s classic cemitas sandwiches from Puebla to exceptional wood-fired pizzas at Ummo. For a taste of tradition, join me at the original Bolívar location of Salón Corona, a lively 90-year-old cervecería in the Centro, and enjoy a refreshing Modelo Especial.
Deep-fried delights at Tres Galeones in Roma Norte, a must-try Mexico City food experience right now.
Explore and Discover: What to Do in Mexico City Right Now
Mexico City’s reputation for exceptional museums is well-deserved. Begin your cultural journey at the Museo Dolores Olmedo, a beautifully landscaped estate in Xochimilco, guarded by peacocks, and home to the largest collection of Frida Kahlo paintings globally. In the fashionable Colonia Roma, the Museo del Objeto del Objeto showcases an eclectic collection of pop design, with past exhibits exploring the history of the Mexican stove through the 1950s. While strolling through Centro, Condesa, Roma, or Coyoacán is always rewarding, consider a unique experience with El Taco Club’s guided taco tours by bicycle, culminating in a craft beer or mezcal tasting. For evening entertainment, Parker & Lenox in Zona Rosa, a speakeasy-style club, offers cocktails and cool jazz, attracting a vibrant, youthful crowd.
Where to Stay: Accommodation in Mexico City Now
For a unique and stylish stay, La Valise in Roma (rooms from around $300) offers three suites furnished with quirky 1950s pieces. “La Terraza” suite even features a bed that rolls onto the terrace. In Condesa, La Palomilla (rooms from $100) is a charming and friendly B&B tucked away in a quiet alley. Across Chapultepec Park, Busue (rooms from $190) provides an intimate alternative to the towering hotels in Polanco. In the Centro, Downtown (dorm beds from $15, rooms from $250) offers a range of options from spacious suites to budget-friendly rooms and dorms, complete with a rooftop pool and bar boasting stunning city views.
Day Trip Escape: Xochicalco
Ancient pyramids of Xochicalco, a captivating day trip from Mexico City revealing pre-Columbian history.
If you’re seeking an alternative to the crowded Teotihuacán pyramids, venture two hours south of Mexico City, passing the majestic, snow-capped Popocatépetl volcano, to Xochicalco. This remarkably well-preserved and lesser-known archaeological site was built by a seventh-century civilization predating the Aztecs, offering a fascinating glimpse into Mexico’s rich pre-Columbian past.
Getting to Mexico City Now
Aeroméxico offers daily six-hour nonstop red-eye service to Mexico City from PDX (fares starting from $336), making your journey to this incredible destination convenient and accessible.
